“Gusto Italiano with Obaeur brothers”
Dolce Vita is hidden away on level 5 of Mandarin Oriental hotel and presents authentic and traditional Italian fine-dining with a modern twist, created with the freshest seasonal produce and ingredients.
Upon entering Dolce Vita, the first thing you’ll notice is the large circular open kitchen. Diners can enjoy the spectacle of the chefs at works within this open kitchen as well as be boggled by the hundreds of wines in their chiller.
The restaurant has a minimalistic layout with primarily white as its base and cobblestone walls for a slightly more rustic experience. Floor-to-ceiling glass windows also light up the restaurant terrifically for a sunny pleasant lunch.
Held in conjunction with the annual Gusto Italiano promotion, guest Chefs Karl and Rudolf Obauer will showcase a spectacular menu of their cuisine at Dolce Vita, from 30 October to 2 November 2014. The Obauer brothers have established themselves as 2 of the greatest chefs in Austria, with 2 michelin stars under their belt for Restaurant Obauer and hotel in Werfen Austria.
The tasting was on 30 October, and unfortunately by the time I got down to writing the review, the special menu was long over. However, this still serves as a pretty good yardstick for Dolce Vita’s usual standards.
Cauliflower Jelly. 3 month air dried smoked beef from Salzburg, eggplant ragout, goose liver and a special blend of alpine herbs found only in the chefs’ home region. An varietal mix of saltiness from the beef and softer touches from the jelly, and a burst of umami from the foie gras.
Lake Char Lasagna. The lasagna has a base of pasta, followed by Arctic char which is a type of cold water fish originating from central Europe’s mountainous region. Then, the next layer adds on with reduced tomatoes, mushrooms, all combined with a reduced seafood stock made with Grüner Veltliner, a variety of white grapes from the Alpine region. The whole dish is held by large basil leafs.
The dish was a subtle mix of oceanic flavours, creamy and light. The base pasta however seemed a little undercooked and powdery though, which is very different from the top later that has great texture.
Celery-Saffron Soup. Steamed pike fish in a light and refreshing broth of celery and saffron. A light, airy soup but don’t be fooled by it’s looks. Saffron flavours are intense and even salty to some which might overpower the pike fish meat within.
Saddle of Lamb. Served with sour cream radish, parsley paste and sweet potato slices. Tender and soft with not much of a gamey taste, which is further covered by the sour cream radish and sweet potato.
Apple Strudel and Cottage Cheese with Chamomile Ice Cream. A typically Austrian dessert, the apple strudel consists of reduced apple, coconut, rum and raisins. Comforting and simple.
The cottage cheese curd is also another popular ingredient from the Austrian region with a heavier taste but light body. The chamomile ice-cream provides an elegant flavour to round up the entire dish.
Most of the dishes I tried at Dolce Vita had subtlety, yet was complex in construction and composition. Very modern and classy. Waiting time for dishes was a tad long though, so make sure you have ample time on your hand when dining here and not rushing anywhere.
The Obaeur brother’s four course lunch is priced at $88++ per person, and a five course lunch at $128++. There is also a five course dinner at $128++, and a seven course dinner at $188++.
Expected Damage: $100 – $150 per pax
