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Stepping into Dempsey Hill makes you forget but for a split second that you’re in Singapore. There are no skyscrapers in sight, and the foliage surrounding you is dense. On warmer days, the muggy weather can prove to be a deterrent for one to hike up the slopes of Dempsey.
However, the numerous eateries that occupy Dempsey exude a welcome and sense of comfort that makes it still as appealing and alluring as five years ago. Enter Baker & Cook Dempsey, one of the many new branches of this well-loved neighbourhood cafè that won our hearts with its earnest bakes and wholesome savouries.
Bread lovers flock here for their fluffy loaves and ingenious creations that are birthed straight from the oven on a daily basis. The space is encased in full glass walls from floor to ceiling, allowing ample natural light to flood into the cafè and seats diners both indoors and al fresco.
The outdoor seating is best suited for families with pets (yes, they’re dog-friendly!) and small kids who can’t help but need a lil’ more wiggle room to run around in.
Adjacent to the main Baker & Cook cafè is Plank Sourdough Pizza‘s latest outlet, a sister restaurant that serves speciality pizzas made with sourdough. Given that this area is much smaller than Baker & Cook Dempsey, diners are allowed to order from both menus regardless of where you’re seated. So no worries about having to limit your food options!
The name of the game at Baker & Cook’s latest outpost is unconventional dishes that can satiate you from morning till night. The first was Peter Gordon’s Turkish Eggs (S$20), a Middle Eastern-inspired rendition of our fond soft-boiled eggs with soya sauce combo.
It takes poached eggs and plops it in a bowl of Aleppo chilli butter, only to be swirled till the yolks break and enjoyed with wheat sourdough.
The spices for this dish were rather intense; the pungency is something you may want to take note of before considering ordering this. It was a dish that left the table divided. As for me, I wasn’t too keen on it, but for the adventurous palate, it could be a win.
As someone who wouldn’t voluntarily choose to order eggplant, their Miso Glazed Eggplant (S$16) got my vote. The bitterness of the eggplant was completely eradicated with the use of umami wakame brown butter, and the sprinkling of cashew gave this deeply rich vegetable dish a satisfyingly crunchy finish.
Corn Fritters (S$16) aren’t commonly seen on menus here, so I was very glad to feel the ample balance between crunch and softness that the Corn Fritters possessed. The only drawback was perhaps the slightly high price-point, given the mediocre serving that was presented to us.
I suppose you’d have to be quite the avid fan of corn to be convinced to order this.
Speaking of corn, this ingredient fared much better in the Blackened Corn Barley Risotto (S$25). It arrived too pretty to consume, but alas, it was also too delicious to turn down. The use of goat cheese thickened the risotto until it was close to paste-like, resulting in a challenging finish.
The chewiness of the ingredients contrasted beautifully with the pureè-esque quality of the risotto, but I shared my two-cents that it could’ve used some citric assistance in the form of lemon juice, just to elevate the density of the dish. Texture aside, it was an earthy dish that I could’ve easily finished if it weren’t for the numerous dishes we had.
My top pick of the afternoon has to be Kühlbarra Barramundi en Papillote (S$28). The fish was delicately wrapped with prawns, shimeji mushrooms, and hot and sour broth. The broth was worthy of sopping up with sourdough bread.
The barramundi flesh was faultless; flaky, sweet and deserving of one’s undivided attention. I couldn’t stop raving about it as I selfishly kept going back for multiple servings and scooping hearty servings of the broth for myself.
New to their sweet section is the Dutch Baby Pancake (S$22). Great for sharing, or even better enjoyed alone, it’s strewn with earl grey poached pear, berries, maple yoghurt, and lemon curd. Don’t expect this pancake to be the fluffy and airy sort; it’s a touch denser and you’ll be able to taste a lot more of the maple yoghurt’s sweetness than from the pancake batter itself.
Eat this quickly, as it proved to get soggy relatively fast.
I’m actually for dessert pizzas, and their Banoffee Plank Pizza (S$14.50) is a creation I’m sure you’ll be able to vouch for. Soft bananas, crunchy walnuts, warm custard, ample drizzle of salted caramel sauce—all atop crisp sourdough base—make for a sweet ending that’s hard to resist.
Needless to say, we were all beyond stuffed by the end of the massive meal, but with a dessert pizza this good, we found a way to make just a teeny wee bit more room for dessert.
I’ve always loved Baker & Cook’s baked goods, as well as their innovative pizzas as Plank Sourdough Pizza. In fact, they also have a burger joint that incorporates their signature sourdough (in their buns), along with their familiar creativity, in the form of Mo & Jo Sourdough Burgers.
So far, they seem to be on a winning streak and show no sign of slowing down. All I can say is, lucky us!
Expected Damage: S$30 – S$45 per pax
