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For those who frequent the cafes between French Road and Tyrwhitt Road behind V Hotel, the eye-catching red and yellow signage of Yan Chuan Roasters at Kitchener Complex may have already caught your attention.
Since 1973, this establishment has been consistently producing top-notch roasted meats. It began as a modest factory wholesaler in Ubi with a takeaway stall that still attracts incredibly long queues, especially during the Chinese New Year period.
Yan Chuan Roasters opened their very own dine-in outlet in 2019, allowing customers to enjoy meals in air-conditioned comfort. I visited Kitchener Complex on an early Sunday afternoon, and despite the mall’s sleepy and almost-dead atmosphere, the restaurant itself was bustling with a sizeable crowd.
What I tried at Yan Chuan Roasters
Upon looking through the menu, I learnt that all the sets give you a choice between 2 soft buns or rice, and a soft drink. There is a notice stating that you’re not allowed to choose your preferred part of the meat.
I started things off with the 1/4 Roasted Peking Duck Set B (S$8.90) with soft buns and added Roasted Pork Belly (+S$3).
If you were anticipating flour skins, crunchy skin, and accompaniments like cucumber and leek strips, you’ll find yourself thoroughly let down. In my opinion, the term ‘Peking duck’ was quite misleading, as the dish leaned more towards a roasted duck preparation.
I was a little annoyed at how much time I had to spend separating the meat from its bones.
That being said, I was pleasantly surprised at how tender and creamy the meat was, almost like a pâté texture. The skin was also rather crispy and aromatic.
I stuffed 2 to 3 slices of the duck into the steamed bun and generously drizzled hoisin sauce and the chilli onto the meat. The combination of the sweet, savoury hoisin and the bold umami flavours from the dried shrimp in the chilli created an ideal match with the roast duck.
The soft bun resembled a fluffy cloud in my hand, melting instantly in my mouth as I devoured it in just 4 bites. It was truly exceptional!
The Roasted Pork Belly provided a 3-tiered delight. First, the crispy, crackling skin welcomed me, followed by the indulgent, melt-in-your-mouth fatty layer. The experience culminated with the tender and impeccably-seasoned meat.
To elevate your enjoyment, I strongly suggest dipping it into the hoisin sauce. If your sauce runs low, don’t fret; you can easily ask the staff for a refill.
I moved on to the 1/2 Roasted Chicken Set C (S$8.90) with rice and an additional portion of Honey Char Siew (+S$3).
The meat and fat were tender, with a subtle sweetness from the honey. The taste was also incredibly delightful. Despite these positive qualities, I did notice a somewhat distinct texture. It had a slightly rubbery feel, though not tough.
Just to clarify, it didn’t put me off. Finding the right words to describe it accurately is a bit tricky.
Amongst the 4 meats I sampled, the roast chicken was arguably the least impressive. While it was adequately marinated, it failed to leave a lasting impression on me. The skin lacked the satisfying dry, crispy texture found in the roasted duck. This aspect made it feel more like a takeaway eaten at home.
Final thoughts
Overall, I found the portions of meat served here pretty worth the price. I’d suggest trying the roasted pork and duck, but you could probably pass on the roasted chicken.
However, I found myself grappling with feelings of guilt and an overpowering sensation. This was largely due to the absence of vegetables or even a few cucumber slices on the side of my dish to counterbalance the richness of the meat.
Do consider visiting Yan Chuan Roasters if you haven’t had the chance to do so yet, and let me know how you feel.
Expected damage: S$8 – S$12 per pax
