Finding non-mainstream spots in unfamiliar towns is no easy feat when you’re not a local, and don’t have one on speed dial. Asking Google will churn out overrated familiar names, while randomly entering any store is a gamble at best.
Discovering Kelab Kopi Lama was a result of an accidental snowballing through suggestions, until its classy name called out to me — someone who’s obsessed with everything old school while simultaneously never living through the era.
Now, if you’re looking for a touristy place with one-of-a-kind selling points like themed decor, this might not be your scene. You’re better off heading to places like the Tan Hiok Nee Heritage Walk. But if circling for parking has worn you down, or just want to enjoy Johorean coffee shop staples in a cosy place, I can’t recommend Kelab Kopi Lama enough.
After a long, obstacle-laden journey from KL to JB, breakfast at noon was off the table — almost. Thankfully, Kelab Kopi Lama serves their full menu all day. I stepped into the unexpectedly spacious establishment around 4pm and was delighted to find breakfast still very much on offer.
What I tried at Kelab Kopi Lama
No kopitiam trip is complete in my book without a plate of the timeless butter kaya toast. If you drop by Kelab Kopi Lama between 2.30pm and 7.30pm (Mon to Fri), you can take advantage of the Set Kopitiam Promo (RM6.60), which is RM3 lesser than the original price.
The set includes 2 pieces of toast layered with butter and kaya in between, your choice of Teh O or Kopi O, and 2 soft-boiled kampung eggs. At that price (by KL standards, anyway), I wasn’t expecting much — but the clean presentation alone had me pleasantly surprised.
Cracking the eggs was a pleasure by itself. The yolks held a vibrant orange hue, mixing beautifully into the whites. I added a splash of soy sauce and a dash of white pepper, as per tradition.
The toasts were a little too ‘raw’ to my liking, as there were barely any char lines to show for a supposed charcoal grilling. That said, the roof of my mouth was thankful as the bread was soft and easy to bite into. The first bite after dipping the toast into the egg mixture was pure comfort. The buttery interior had just the right touch of sweetness, and the kampung eggs gave it a rich, creamy texture but not jelak like regular eggs.
The Teh O was nothing fancy, but it carried a comforting fragrance that instantly transported me to my grandma’s kitchen in Ipoh. If you know, you know.
Funnily enough, the next dish was actually what led us to Kelab Kopi Lama in the first place. After a 3-hour journey to Johor, like any sane person, I was determined to try the town’s best Laksa Johor. Unfortunately, most of the highly recommended spots as claimed by the locals were closed on Mondays. This coffee shop ended up being our last resort.
For just RM9.90, the portion was more than fair. Spaghetti noodles sat nestled in a thick, reddish gravy, topped with shredded cucumber, red onion, taugeh, and minced lobak asin (salted radish). A halved lime and a generous dollop of sambal belacan sat on the side, just as tradition calls for.
The gravy was undoubtedly thicker and oilier than what I’m used to. Looks could be deceiving, as the taste of the aromatics were surprisingly subtle, despite the vibrant red hue.
It was less fishy than I expected, and I could taste slight sweetness from the cucumbers, along with a gentle layer of floral note from the bunga kantan. Personally, I’d have liked the bunga kantan to come through stronger, but for those with gentler palates, this version hits a nice balance.
The spaghetti was cooked just past al dente — neither too firm nor overly soft. A squeeze of lime made it even better, and while the sambal belacan leaned more vinegary than spicy, it added a tangy punch that rounded the dish nicely.
Though I wasn’t exactly starving, there’s always room for a little snack. We decided to wrap things up with Getuk Ubi (RM4.90 for 3 pieces). If you’re unfamiliar with the dish, it’s essentially pounded tapioca or cassava mixed with coconut, then deep-fried to achieve that signature crispy outer layer.
I’m not exaggerating when I say this might be the best Getuk Ubi I’ve ever had. It’s long been one of my favourites, but the version here was downright addictive. Each piece was not too thick nor too flat, with a soft, almost gooey interior that melted in the mouth. The sweetness was perfectly balanced, and the outer crust stayed lightly crisp even after sitting out for a bit.
Final thoughts
Kelab Kopi Lama might not be one of those makan spots that you’d find worthy of travelling 3 hours over, though it’s guaranteed to not disappoint. It’s the sort of spot you’d happily return to again and again if it were in your neighbourhood. It’s unexpectedly comfy with a clean interior (and toilet — yes, we’ve tried that too), so you can always bring your parents along without them grumbling about the heat.
Expected damage: RM4.90 — RM9.90 per pax
Price: $
Our Rating: 4 / 5
Kelab Kopi Lama
2, Jln Kempas Utama 1/1, Taman Kempas Utama, Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia 81300
Kelab Kopi Lama
2, Jln Kempas Utama 1/1, Taman Kempas Utama, Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia 81300
