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Food

Thaan Charcoal Cooking: Steak & Other Fusion Dishes Grilled Over Local Charcoal In Bangkok

Last Updated: February 4, 2020

Written by Ploylada Sucharitachandra

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

A few years ago, when talking about (good) steakhouses in Bangkok, one would very likely think of ritzy, five-star hotel establishments. Today, thanks to the city’s increasing popularity of beef-centric eats, locals have been introduced to a greater variety of options.

Think premium cuts at wallet-friendlier prices plus a more relaxed ambience, and amongst this flourishing scene is Thaan Charcoal Cooking.

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

Set in a refurbished shophouse along a quiet alley on Sukhumvit 31, the casual fine dining restaurant is intimate; it occupies just one floor of the building and is only open for dinner.

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

Inside, bar seats flank the right and make for an excellent front-row option where diners can enjoy a view of the smoky, open kitchen. 

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

A fabric room divider away is the main dining area, which was dimly lit with jazz tunes humming in the background. The space looked perfect for cosy gatherings and casual dates. 

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

The menu features small plates and a mix of meat and seafood dishes cooked in a Josper grill, using local charcoal.

For the uninitiated, a Josper grill brings together the best of both worlds in charcoal cooking; it’s a grill which gives the meat a lovely char but has a front compartment that, when closed, locks in all the natural moisture and flavours. It’s basically a top-notch indoor barbecue.

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

While waiting for my orders to arrive, I was served warm, fluffy buns with charcoal butter. Considering thaanmeans ‘charcoal’ in Thai, I felt the combination made for a nice introduction to the meal. 

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

From the small plates menu, I started with the Blue Swimmer Crab Capellini (THB200).

Presented chilled, the pasta was tossed in a refreshing and slightly tangy seaweed sauce then completed with sweet, juicy chunks of Surat Thani crabmeat and caviar. It was even topped with a crinkly gold leaf that added an extra touch of luxury to the dish. 

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

Next to arrive was the Wagyu and Sea Urchin Smørrebrød (THB580 per piece), brimming with bold flavours. ‘Smørrebrød‘ is traditionally an open-faced sandwich, popular in Scandinavia.

Thaan’s version is essentially a fluffy piece of toast topped with a good dollop of well-seasoned tartare of A4 beef, creamy Hokkaido uni and caviar. The gold leaf once again made an appearance in this decadent dish.

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

Because all the ingredients used were of exceptional quality, it perhaps did not require as much seasoning or the fancy add-ons. Nevertheless, it made for a very delicious umami-bomb and I was not surprised that this is one of the restaurant’s most popular dishes. 

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

For some vegetables to balance the meat-centric meal, I was recommended a platter of Charred Lettuce (THB250). I wasn’t sure what to expect from cooked lettuce but was pleasantly surprised. 

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

The smoky bed of greens was garnished with a savoury anchovy creme fraiche dressing, as well as avocados and pine nuts for added texture. Everything worked really well together but if you’re not a fan of anchovy, then this dish probably isn’t for you. 

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

Thaan also offers a few seafood dishes and I tried the soulful platter of Octopus with Chorizo Cassoulet (THB650). A cassoulet is essentially a sort of stew, usually made with meat and beans.  

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

The octopus tentacle was very tender and fittingly accompanied by luscious Chiang Mai chorizo bites and baked beans. This was a hearty dish but not too filling, given its portion size. 

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

Of course, a meal at Thaan would not be complete without a sizzling steak straight from the Josper grill. Since the restaurant takes pride in dry-ageing the beef in-house, I was curious to try the 45-Day Dry-Aged Australian Wagyu Striploin (THB500 per 100g). It came with a beef jus sauce on the side and sea salt for extra seasoning.

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

Despite appearing medium-rare, it was slightly too dry for my liking so perhaps I’ll opt for a rarer cook next time round. One of my dining companions, however, enjoyed it and preferred the gamey flavour, possibly from the dry-ageing process.  

My advice would be to let your waiter or waitress know what your palate fancies upon ordering so they can decide on what doneness you should go for.

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

Then came my favourite dish—Thaan’s signature Oh My Supper, or Beef Lardo Garlic Fried Rice (THB1350 for the smaller portion). A generous amount of truffle shavings were added to the serving before everything was mixed together.

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

The Australian wagyu was undeniably juicy and the Japanese rice offered a nice, chewy texture. Chopped chillies and a dash of lemon brightened the soulful bowl. This is a must-order!

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

There was only one dessert item on the menu, so I concluded the meal with Thaan’s House Strawberry Cheesecake (THB200). 

Thaan Charcoal Cooking Bangkok

While it could have been more tart, each bite of the homemade cake was rich and creamy, well-balanced by the accompanying fresh chunks of strawberry and compote.


If you’re looking to escape Bangkok’s bustle with steak in a cosy, intimate setting, check out Thaan. The restaurant features a small but carefully-curated menu that seems have been well-received, considering it was a full house the night I visited. 

There were a few standouts and I do wish I could say I enjoyed the steak a bit more but hey, it’s one of the most subjective dishes. What matters most is that the team behind Thaan are happy and passionate about what they do, and I truly felt that from the kitchen crew and beaming owners who happened to be present.

Keep an eye out for the wine bar that’s soon to open upstairs too!

Expected Damage: THB1,800++ per pax

Price: $ $

Our Rating: 3 / 5

Thaan Charcoal Cooking

68/6 Soi Sukhumvit 31 Yaek 4, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok, Thailand 10110

Price
Our Rating 3/5

Thaan Charcoal Cooking

68/6 Soi Sukhumvit 31 Yaek 4, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok, Thailand 10110

Telephone: +66 86 303 1211
Operating Hours: 5.30pm - 12am (Mon to Sat), Closed on Sun
Telephone: +66 86 303 1211

Operating Hours: 5.30pm - 12am (Mon to Sat), Closed on Sun
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