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Raised by a Chinese family from the tender age of 4, Chef Devid Retanasamy, an Indian chef from Ipoh, never fails to turn heads when he effortlessly switches to fluent Mandarin and Cantonese. He has just opened Minum Kopi Cafe & Bakery, a Halal-certified zi char spot at 213 Bedok North Street 1.
With over 135 dishes on the menu — think fried rice, noodles, BBQ seafood, and beyond — there’s something for everyone to enjoy.
Devid’s adoptive father wanted him to learn the art of dim sum and eventually take over the family business. But he was stubborn and refused. Instead, he followed his passion of cooking zi char from the age of 12 — a craft he’s pursued tirelessly for over 3 decades.
He wields the wok with instinctive ease, tossing ingredients through the flames like a total pro. With such speed and precision, he’s on par with veteran Chinese chefs at a professional kitchen.
What I tried at Minum Kopi Cafe & Bakery
We started with one of Devid’s specialities, the Curry Fish Head. As an opening promo, this dish and the Assam Fish Head are currently going for just S$16 each instead of S$35, until further notice. What a steal!
The curry featured a well-balanced blend of spices with a mild, comforting heat, while the long beans, cabbage, and tau pok were braised to tender perfection. A simple bowl of steaming plain rice was all that remained to complete this deeply satisfying meal — perfect for soaking up every last drop.
As for the star of the dish — the fish — it was undeniably fresh, with a buttery texture so soft it melted on the tongue like a whisper.
The Assam Fish Head was slathered with assam gravy and generously topped with eggplant, lady’s finger, tomatoes, onions and long beans.
Beyond the familiar zesty and spicy notes, Chef Devid’s rendition introduced an unexpected hint of sweetness that rounded out the flavours flawlessly. The gravy also carried a dominant undertone of rojak flower, adding an aromatic and floral punch.
While we were eating, an elderly uncle came up to us, curious about our dish, and remarked that it looked really delicious. We smiled, nodding in acknowledgment.
We were treated to a spectacle as Chef Devid wok-fried the Kampung Fried Rice (S$6) right before us, accompanied by the satisfying crackle of intense flames licking the metal wok.
Filled with slivers of juicy red onions, egg, ikan bilis, chilli bits and kangkong, each grain of crimson-hued rice was fragrant and had a gentle tingling of spice. It was complemented by the crunchy anchovies, adding a delightful punch of umami to each mouthful.
We then moved on to the Prawn Paste Chicken Wings (S$12). Each golden brown morsel topped with fine crumbs was sinfully crispy and filled with the signature shrimpy goodness of har cheong. Inside, the meat was moist, tender, and packed with juicy flavour.
As a grilled fish lover, I couldn’t pass up the BBQ Stingray (S$18). The chunky sambal on top may have looked menacing and potent, but it turned out to be a gentle giant that packed a ton of flavour.
To conclude our lunch, Devid recommended we try the Traditional Claypot Belacan Kangkong (S$10), a dish he regards as his childhood favourite. Instead of the usual sambal, he utilises belacan to stir fry the morning glory, then crowns it with ikan bilis.
So how did it taste? Well, it was unlike any version I’d had before — bolder, more savoury, and packed with umami in every bite. Again, this will go very well with plain rice.
Final thoughts
It’s a rare sight to see an Indian chef commanding the wok with such confidence. With Halal certification now in place, this is the first time Chef Devid is able to introduce his dishes to the Muslim community.
If you’re craving zi char and find yourself in the Bedok neighbourhood, be sure to swing by Minum Kopi Cafe & Bakery to get your cravings fixed. Who knows? You may even get the chance to converse with Devid in fluent Mandarin!
Expected damage: S$5 – S$11 per pax
* This post is brought to you in partnership with Minum Kopi Cafe & Bakery.
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