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Back in the heart of Chinatown once more, I found myself drawn to a quieter corner; this time for a taste of Nyonya fare at Old China Cafe.
Tucked along the same road as the ever-popular Ho Kow Hainan Kopitiam (which, true to form, was swarmed with diners yet again), Old China Cafe offered a welcome contrast. As I weaved past the crowd spilling onto the pavement, I was quietly grateful to be heading somewhere a little more serene. Inside, only 3 aunties were seated. Bliss.
Stepping through the wooden doors of Old China Cafe felt like slipping into someone’s heritage home. Perhaps your Peranakan grandma’s, if she had a flair for vintage posters, framed calligraphy, and woodsy tones.
The space was snug, softly lit, and thankfully air-conditioned. Seated beside a standing unit, I was nearly lulled into a midday nap.
While the menu featured no pork or lard (from what I could see, at least), they did serve alcohol quite openly which was a bit of a curveball. Out of personal beliefs, I enlisted my ever-reliable colleague for the tasting duties— just to be safe!
Now, on to the good part: the food.
What I tried at Old China Cafe
Since Old China Cafe specialises in Nyonya cuisine, expect a colourful blend of Straits Chinese and Malay flavours. We had our eyes on the Nyonya Laksa and Buah Keluak Fried Rice, but with only one of us eating, we kept it simple: one main, one snack.
Our choice was a safe but satisfying option: Nyonya Fried Rice with Fried Chicken (RM17.90), served as a lunch combo with a cold drink. The plate arrived with fried rice, turmeric fried chicken, shredded fresh cucumber and carrot, sambal belacan, and a papadom.
The warm and inviting aroma greeted me first before anything else, reminiscent of your classic Indonesian nasi goreng. My dining partner took a bite and was immediately caught off-guard by the heat. “You’d love this,” she said, fanning her mouth. The rice was robustly seasoned with red chilli and onion paste, soy sauce, and probably a bit of oyster sauce.
The veggies were fresh, though pickled ones might’ve added more punch. The sambal belacan was a blend of raw chillies, fermented shrimp paste (likely untoasted), and lime juice.
The fried chicken, sadly, was on the dry side. It mostly tasted of turmeric and salt despite the visible bits of fried spices. The papadom lacked crunch and leaned softer than what she would have liked. Still, the dish held its own as a hearty, flavourful lunch.
I had scanned a few Google reviews beforehand, and one recurring favourite caught my eye: the Pai Tee (RM17.90).
The top hat shells were definitely larger than what I was used to, with a unique shape as well. We filled them with the jicama filling, raw minced garlic, Hainanese chicken rice chilli sauce, and cilantro.
The jicama mix was mushy but nicely seasoned with green beans and fried shallots. It wasn’t oily or soggy, which lent a satisfying bite without overwhelming the palate. The shells were crisp, and each bite packed a balanced medley of flavour and texture.
Final thoughts
While I didn’t sample the dishes myself, I trusted my colleague’s verdict. She’s far pickier than I am, after all. And although her spice tolerance is on the gentler side, she was confident that fellow spice lovers like me would enjoy the fried rice even more.
She’d gladly return, and even declared it far better than Ho Kow Hainan Kopitiam. Taste is, of course, subjective… but perhaps it’s time we gave Old China Cafe the appreciation it truly deserves.
Expected damage: RM11.90 – RM17.90 per pax
