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Growing up in Kuala Lumpur, Petaling Street — or Chinatown, as it’s affectionately known now — was never really my go-to spot. It’s mostly a tourist magnet, thanks to its vibrant food scene brimming with Malaysia’s diverse cultures.
While some might say Chinatown is “overrated,” there’s simply no way to see it all in one day. Along the way, you’ll likely discover popular spots that you somehow missed before. For me, that spot was Ho Kow Hainan Kopitiam.
Established in 1956, Ho Kow Hainan Kopitiam is a famous breakfast kopitiam nestled along Jalan Balai Polis, just a stone’s throw from Chinatown. Operating only until a little past afternoon, its reputation is evident from the long, snaking queues from the moment its doors open at 7.30am.
Arriving just after 10am, I was greeted by a long line of eager patrons — with few locals in sight. Guests are given a number based on their party size, and you wait until you are called for a seat. After about 20 minutes, I was ushered to a 3-seater table on the second floor, which proved to be delightfully cosy despite its stuffy-looking exterior.
What I tried at Ho Kow Hainan Kopitiam
Given that it’s a breakfast spot, indulging in their Butter & Kaya Toast (RM4) is simply a must. The dish arrived in the form of 2 slices of toasted, fluffy white bread, generously layered with fragrant pandan kaya alongside neat blocks of butter visible in every cross-section.
One pet peeve I have with toasts from many shops is their inconsistent texture. Often, they’re either too tough — more like a cracker than soft bread — or become disappointingly chewy once cooled, which is why I usually prefer making my own. At Ho Kow Hainan Kopitiam, however, the bread was a delightful surprise: incredibly soft inside with a perfectly crisp exterior.
Paired with the smooth pandan kaya and velvety butter, each bite offered a harmonious medley of textures and subtle sweetness. The kaya had soaked into the bread, bursting with flavour and turning every mouthful into a heavenly moist goodness.
I was really looking forward to trying their Nasi Lemak Ayam Goreng (RM17.30). There’s something so enticingly refined yet hearty about kopitiam nasi lemak. And considering the price, my expectations were high.
The sambal was finely ground, and from the very first taste, I was floored by the vibrant, umami-packed shrimp paste that lent the sambal an intense, deep savoury flavour. At first glance, the coconut rice appeared dry, but one spoonful revealed a subtle richness from the coconut milk and aromatic spices. Still, I couldn’t help but wish it were a bit fluffier.
I had no complaints about the ikan bilis, peanuts, and cucumber slices — they were all delightfully crispy and fresh. Now, onto the chicken. Dear readers, I wish I could hold your hand as I recount my disappointment: I ended up having to discard a full quarter of the chicken leg.
Kafe Ruuma: The cheapest nasi lemak ayam in a mall, just RM6.90 — is it good though?
When I sliced into the chicken, I was initially excited by the sight of its crispy skin — the fat was perfectly rendered, leaving a thin sheet of skin that shattered immediately just from the slightest bite. Although the meat was slightly overcooked, I thought a better marinade might have salvaged it.
Then came the bite. Anticipating a rich, spiced marinade, I was devastated when an intense, pungent sourness overwhelmed my taste buds. Yes, dear readers — the chicken had gone bad. I had done my homework before visiting Ho Kow Hainan Kopitiam, and a few reviews had mentioned encountering spoiled chicken with the nasi lemak. I never expected to be one of them.
To cleanse my palate from the earlier disappointment, I moved on to the last dish of the day — a light snack, really — Cheese Beancurd (RM5.60). The platter featured 3 pieces of cheese-filled beancurds.
The cheese was subtle yet satisfying, perfectly nestled between bouncy beancurds that reminded me of a delicate, non-fishy fishcake. I did find myself wishing the chilli sauce on the side was a bit runnier, as it stubbornly refused to cling to the oil-coated beancurds. While it was undoubtedly tasty, it didn’t quite leave me singing its praises.
Final thoughts
I must admit, I was left feeling conflicted. On one hand, the kaya toasts were among the best I’ve ever tasted. On the other, being served nearly spoiled food was a hard pill to swallow. I consider myself lucky to have dodged food poisoning or worse, despite the loss of a generous quarter of a chicken drumstick.
So, does Ho Kow Hainan Kopitiam really deserve those long, snaking queues from dawn till noon? Honestly, I don’t think so. But then again, taste is subjective. Despite its popularity however, I just couldn’t see the appeal.
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