Popiah reminds me of time spent with my family during the circuit breaker, where we would order DIY popiah sets to assemble at the dining table every other weekend. I didn’t think I’d be able to find a stall that could replicate this tender feeling, but that was before I tried Ping Kee Popiah at Sembawang Hills Food Centre.
For those unfamiliar with this Chinese delicacy, I’m honoured to be the one introducing it to you! Popiah, which translates to “thin pancake” in Teochew, is essentially a tissue-thin crepe stuffed with a delicious assortment of veggies, egg, peanuts and sometimes even meats, if fancy enough.
Let me walk you through my experience this morning: Gloomy skies, strong, cool winds and a relatively empty hawker centre with just enough chatter and pitter-patter for background noise.
As if my cosy morning couldn’t get any better, the ah ma running Ping Kee Popiah beckoned to me, smiling, “Xiao mei, what do you want to eat?” After ordering, I watched the ah gong stuff my popiah generously with ingredients and roll it all up tightly with the prowess of a… err, popiah master?
According to a few Facebook netizens, the couple running this stall has been selling only these 2 dishes for the past 30+ years they’ve been in business. Not to doubt them, but for the prices and in this economy, how good must it be for them to have sustained their business till now?
What I tried at Ping Kee Popiah
With only 2 items on the menu, it was a no-brainer that I’d get one of each — one roll of Popiah (S$2) and a set of Kueh Pie Tee (S$3.50 for 4).
Popiah, quite literally, does not exist without the crepe; the “thin pancake”. It is why this is my first determining factor for what makes a popiah good.
Happy to report that this one is, in fact, great! It was a good in-between, thin enough not to overpower the dish with its doughy taste, but not too thin such that I could still depend on it to envelop all the ingredients without breaking apart the moment I pick it up.
The filling was a mix of the classic — julienned braised turnips (or jicama), cabbage and tiny pieces of egg, topped with a crunchy mix of roasted peanuts and fried flour bits. The main ingredient, the jicama, was deliciously braised in a savoury and rich flavour that still retained the natural sweetness of the fresh root veggie.
A moment for the crunch, please. Although meagre in portion, don’t underestimate what it brings to the popiah! I thoroughly enjoyed how the nutty crushed peanuts and crispy flour bits contrasted against the chewy wrapper and soft veggies, contributing to a satisfying mouthfeel.
Frankly, I was feeling a little gaslit because most reviews I’ve seen of Ping Kee Popiah mentioned their lap cheong (Chinese sausage), yet they were nowhere in sight. I went as far as to dissect each piece, but to no avail; there simply was no meat. Hais.
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Kueh Pie Tee is like popiah’s charming little sister; she shares similar features but tries her best to flaunt her own flair.
That’s how I felt about this one, at least. Even with the same base ingredients of braised turnips and egg, its taste was distinctly different from the popiah. My guess is that it’s attributed to the chilli sauce used. Here, it was on the sweet side with a tangy note, compared to the popiah’s potent and salty one that carried a spicy kick.
Also, does anyone else like the shell a tad bit soft, or… just me? I appreciated that this shell wasn’t the crispiest, but of course firm enough to still retain its shape and hold the ingredients together. It had a pleasant eggy taste to it, too.
The best way to enjoy kueh pie tee is by stuffing the whole thing in your mouth (according to me). Each ingredient carries its own unique texture and flavour profile, which just makes for an explosion of juices and a perfect bite.
Final Thoughts
In a world of chicken rice, wanton mee and fishball noodle stalls, old school snacks stalls like Ping Kee Popiah are sparse.
From the ordering experience to licking every crumb clean, my heart and tummy are warm and full. I can’t say it’s the best for sure, but something about it tastes a little like home, and I stay in the West, mind you.
If I ever happen to be in the area, Ping Kee Popiah will definitely be my choice for a meal fix.
Expected damage: S$2 – S$3.50 per pax
Bites by Ann Chin: Michelin popiah, loaded waffles & local bites in hole-in-wall eatery
Price: $
Our Rating: 4 / 5
Ping Kee Popiah
590 Upper Thomson Rd, Sembawang Hills Food Centre, #01-32, Singapore 574419
Ping Kee Popiah
590 Upper Thomson Rd, Sembawang Hills Food Centre, #01-32, Singapore 574419