
For the longest time, my default Mexican choice has always been Margarita’s. Their iteration doesn’t come slapped with grease layered on corn tortillas, complete with a mountain of guacamole and salsa. That’s usually the imagery that comes to mind when I think of lazy Mexican food.
Instead, their menu is highly curated, with noticeable love and intention behind every menu entry. But then came along Super Loco Customs House. I was once foolish enough to think that every restaurant along Singapore’s stunning bay was nothing more than a tourist trap with tawdry offerings and overpriced listings.
It was an opportune time for me to make my maiden visit to this Mexican restaurant, as they are offering a taste of Cancun, Mexico exclusively for the month of October 2020. If this menu is by any chance a measure of their permanent carte, then strap in, boys and girls, because your taste buds are about to go on a wild ride.
What I tried
The menu’s title is Ultimate Mexican Journey (you can feast on all dishes for a wallet-friendly price of S$59, or pick individual servings) and it aims to quell our inner wanderlust by bringing the flavours of Cancun to the table. Although I was overwhelmed by how crazy-good every component on this limited-time menu was, I will attempt to whittle it down to my top three.
You can drop the idea of getting served rudimentary salsa and corn chips; instead, be greeted by Sikil Pak (S$6), a pumpkin seed, tomato, onion, habanero, and coriander dip that’s equal parts dense and spicy. What’s most gratifying about this combination is the creamy-against-crunch medley.
If I closed my eyes and were subjected to a blind taste-test, I swear I would’ve guessed the dip to be made with minced meat—that’s how surprising, and more importantly, moreish, it was.
I want to take this moment to profess my love for fish tacos, and at the same time, declare my utter disdain for when restaurants don’t get it right. Here, it swept me off my feet a la meeting eyes with your first crush, and my biggest resentment was that there was only a single piece to appease me.
The Tostadas de Pez (two pieces) (S$16) comes in a pair—achiote (a dark red, tart-tasting powder made from annatto seed used for both colour and flavour) grilled barramundi, guacamole, pickled red onion, and smoked salt, while the other cradled cured fish, agave, onion, cucumber, pomegranate, and lashings of lime.
While the latter had its merits with bright, invigorating flavours, every fibre of my being belonged to the achiote grilled barramundi. For those who choose meat over fish most days, let me sway you by expressing how excellently the pickled red onion sliced right through the smoky fish. This made room for the rich guacamole, allowing it to lend its richness as the cherry on top (if you will).
Octopus can prove to be temperamental (regardless of whether alive or grilled), and what glory it was to have the Taco de Pulpo (S$19) to round up my top three favourites of the meal. The delicately braised octopus retained much of its bounce before it gave way to a gentle and soft middle. Lending its support was a potpourri of cucumber, orange vinaigrette, pickled red onions, and micro coriander giving off both acidity and aroma.
Final thoughts
Some of you might be wondering, is there no dessert to conclude this seemingly exquisite meal? Oh, but there was. The Arroz Con Leche (S$6)—essentially a dessert taco—was a chilled creation I desperately wanted to fawn over. Working alongside Tom’s Palette to create an exclusive gelato with mango, chia, rice milk, and coconut, my advice would be to skip the photos and wolf this down before humidity gets to it.
For something that’s expectedly sweet, it carried varying levels of sweetness, which made scarfing this down effortless. Alas, it was missing a shower of salt that could’ve easily transformed this one-note sweet course. However, don’t let this (almost) insignificant flaw deter you from ordering it—it’s hardly a reason to avoid falling for its cool charm.
While this limited-time menu is only available for October 2020, it makes me even more curious to try their regular offerings. In fact, I’ve already made reservations for this weekend to enjoy this menu all over again, and who knows, I might just sneak in a few extras to disprove that this is merely a fleeting relationship.
Expected Damage: S$6 – S$59 per pax
Price: $ $
Our Rating: 5 / 5
Super Loco Customs House
70 Collyer Quay, Customs House, #01-04, Singapore 049323
Super Loco Customs House
70 Collyer Quay, Customs House, #01-04, Singapore 049323