I cannot help but feel like a mesmerised tourist in my own city every time I set foot in Bangkok’s Old Town. With no skyscrapers or skytrains in sight, the ‘hood has done an exceptional job in preserving its long-standing architectures.
In between these beautiful tourist attractions and old-fashioned shophouses rest a good number of hip dining destinations that are often operated by young successors.
26 Braised Beef, also known as Yih Saph Luhk, is a funky spin-off of Phra Athit Road’s legendary Nai Soie beef noodle shop and is run by the original founder’s son.
Completely decked out in Hong Kong-style decor, the shophouse stands out on a rather tranquil part of Charoenkrung.
From across the road, a bold neon sign reading 26 Yih Sahp Luhk (in Chinese) flashes above a dark teal exterior. The floor-to-ceiling glass windows allow for a full panorama of the restaurant.
Inside, the same dark teal paint presents a lovely contrast to the bare walls, white terrazzo, vintage Chinese artworks and zany lighting (certainly no heavy filters needed for your film-inspired Instagram posts).
Some say the ambience is reminiscent of Wong Kar-wai’s motion picture In the Mood For Love. The open kitchen, which is often helmed by the young owner himself, dishes out homey, beef-centric dishes.
After going through the limited menu, I decided to start with a palate-teasing dish in hopes of shaking off Bangkok’s summer blues. The waitress recommended the Spicy Salad of Braised Short Ribs (THB 150).
On a bed of greens, chunky slices of the flavoursome cut were tossed in a refreshing Thai-style dressing that was the perfect balance of tang and spiciness.
However, while the beef was very tender, I felt that it was not the right cut for the dish as it was very bold in taste. Perhaps the alternative, Spicy Salad of Beef Tenderloin (THB 120), would have been more preferable.
If you are visiting with friends, order the Beef Hotpot (THB 350), which is one of the restaurant’s most popular picks. The starter set will come with a combination of tenderloin slices, braised beef, meatballs and morning glory (water spinach).
Taken together, the DIY serving made for a homey and soulful course.
The meatballs were bouncy and meaty, the braised beef cuts were lush and full-bodied in taste and the tenderloin slices were tender and juicy at once.
What I felt truly completed this meal was the umami-laden soup. With a hint of Chinese herbs, the beef-based broth was beautifully flavourful and soothing.
Make sure to put aside a personal helping of the house-made sauce of vinegar and fermented chilli.
The condiment was unlike any I’ve had — savoury, zesty and mildly hot with an addictive, plum-like aftertaste thanks to the fermented components. It offered a lovely zing to the hotpot ingredients.
Need more meat? No problem. You can also order more a la carte ingredients to maximise the sharing experience. Options range from Shanks (THB 100) and Tendons (THB 100) to Steamed Rice Noodles (THB 30).
If you still have room to indulge in more meaty delights, the rice dishes also do not disappoint. My pick was the Braised Short Ribs With Rice (THB 200), which arrived with an inviting aroma.
The claypot rice was perfectly moist and lightly seasoned with a subtle taste of herbs, making it a gorgeous pairing to the especially succulent slices of braised Kobe beef.
For added flavour, brighten the dish with a squeeze of lime. My favourite thing to do, however, was to spice up each spoonful with a small dollop of the accompanying chilli oil paste.
If you (or your companions) don’t fancy beef, don’t fret. The menu also includes pork options, such as Braised Pork Noodle (THB 80) and Spicy Salad of Braised Pork (THB 120), so that everyone can enjoy.
I was excited to end the heavy meal on a sweet note with a refreshing scoop of Chinese Red Date Sorbet (THB 70) or an icy bowl of Grass Jelly With Brown Sugar (THB 30), but both were sadly sold out that day.
Nonetheless, my 26 Braised Beef experience was well worth the visit. If you are a beef lover like I am, you need to put this spot on your agenda.
Travelling to this part of town may not be the most convenient but embrace it as your chance to explore! That hotpot broth is enough to keep me coming back.
Expected Damage: THB 150 – THB 400 per pax
Price: $
Our Rating: 4 / 5
26 Braised Beef (Yih Saph Luhk)
19/2 Charoenkrung, Wang Burapha Phirom, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok, Thailand 10200
26 Braised Beef (Yih Saph Luhk)
19/2 Charoenkrung, Wang Burapha Phirom, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok, Thailand 10200