Malaysia
Singapore
Thailand
If you’ve ever set foot in Penang, chances are you’ve either tasted or heard whispers of the legendary Air Itam Sister Curry Mee stall nestled in Georgetown. For many, it’s more than just a bowl of noodles— it’s a taste of heritage, a comforting memory.
And so, it is with heavy hearts that we share the passing of one of its founding sisters, Mdm Lim Koo Lai, who departed peacefully on 21 June at the age of 91.
First established in 1946, the modest stall tucked beside the bustling morning market has been dishing out Penang-style curry mee simmered over charcoal stoves for nearly 8 decades.
It’s a place where tradition is ladled out in every bowl, earning it a coveted spot in the Michelin Guide as one of Malaysia’s top 80 must-try street food.
Today, the torch is carried by 35-year-old Ong May May, the granddaughter of both founding sisters— Mdm Lim Koo Lai and her sister, Lim Kooi Heang.
As the 3rd generation helming the stall, she continues their legacy with quiet resilience and care. The curry mee is sold at RM8 per bowl, filled with comforting broth bursting with chilli paste and spices, coconut milk, tofu puffs, and squid.
Though the recipe has seen subtle adjustments over time due to changing supply sources, longtime patrons say the soul of the dish has never changed.
On the morning of 21 June, Mdm Lim was reportedly her usual self, enjoying her usual breakfast, before passing peacefully at home later that evening. Her funeral held on 24 June brought together loyal patrons and a close-knit community.
As we remember Mdm Lim Koo Lai, we also honour a lifetime of dedication stirred into every pot at Air Itam Sister Curry Mee. And in every spoonful of curry mee that follows, her story lives on. We extend our sincerest condolences to her family and loved ones during this difficult time.
Ah Yi Lao Huo Tang: $5 double-boiled Chinese soup to cleanse the palate and soul
