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Wok-kissed, sweet and sinfully good — these are some non-negotiables for a solid plate of char kway teow in my books.
While it isn’t exactly difficult to find a rendition in Singapore that ticks off all these boxes, I (almost desperately) needed to know if Meng Kee Fried Kway Teow would. Why? Well, when a stall finds itself perched at the apex of *multiple* best-of lists, it’s bound to run circles in my mind.
The highly raved stall in question resides in the otherwise nondescript Havelock Road Cooked Food Centre, and very prominently so. An incredible smoky aroma wafted from the stall, so heavenly I practically turned into a heart-eyed cartoon character levitating my way towards it. Consider that one box checked?
Now, for a little history: Meng Kee Fried Kway Teow has been frying up plates of the delicious noodle dish for over 4 decades. At its helm today is the daughter of the original hawker who, according to some, might even have better gong fu than her father.
You bet my expectations were sky-high. I’d recently had a plate of char kway teow that left me so awed I went speechless (hint: it’s from an eponymous stall in the Central North). I was hoping to be floored like that.
What I tried at Meng Kee Fried Kway Teow
Meng Kee Fried Kway Teow serves its glorious titular dish in S$4 and S$5 portions, with the option to add Extra Egg (S$1), Sausage (S$1) and Cockles (S$2).
Frankly, I couldn’t help but raise an eyebrow when I received my S$5 order. So… this is the larger portion? But I wasn’t about to complain at that price point — especially since the glistening plate of grub smelled nothing short of incredible.
The plate contained a good mix of noodles and kway teow, so well-fried I swear I could see subtle char marks on their glossy surfaces. And oh, yum. One bite in and I was greeted by that divine wok hei fragrance, layered over the sweetness I so love in char kway teow.
However, as I worked my way through the plate, the dish’s richness began to taper off. While undeniably tasty, it lacked that sticky, sinful decadence that usually makes me weak at the knees. Great news for those who prefer their indulgence a little more understated, though!
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Dotted throughout the plate were the usual suspects, each adding its own distinct touch. The lup cheong slices lent pleasant pops of winey sweetness, while slivers of taugeh threaded through and offered the supple noodle strands a fresh, crunchy contrast.
Of all, the egg bits were my favourite component. Fluffy and embellished with a rich, smoky char, they deepened the dish’s aroma in the best way. Coming in second were the golden nuggets of pork lard, which rendered a nutty, unctuous richness.
And wow, were there many cockles. I didn’t bother to count each blood-red morsel, but there were enough to pile onto a heaped spoonful, as you can see. They were chubbier than average too, bursting with a brininess that, for me, leaned a tad too metallic.
Final thoughts
Wok-kissed? Check. Sinfully good? Not quite.
Meng Kee Fried Kway Teow presented a solid plate of char kway teow for sure, with the star of the show undoubtedly being that powerful wok hei perfuming each bite. Its flavours, though enjoyable and moreish, however leaned a little restrained for my heavy palate.
Of course, to each their own. While my personal preferences lie elsewhere, I can certainly get behind this stall’s acclaim, and am all for returning for another plate if I’m in the area while the craving hits.
Expected damage: S$4 – S$5 per pax
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