Ah Hor Teochew Kway Teow Noodle, Farrer Park: I wish I were privy to the sauce’s recipe

Some Sundays my dad would stop by his regular noodle house at Ah Hor Teochew Kway Teow (亚河潮州粿条面) and tapau back for the family. It was his favourite and I always wondered: there must be something about it that has kept it a ritual for him, right?

So, one morning I huddled the family to have breakfast at his usual haunt, Ah Hor Teochew Kway Teow Noodle in Farrer Park, just beside City Square Mall.

Before, the stall was no more than a small stand along Verdun road, however, they relocated across the road to a small kopitiam as their lease came to an end. I did enjoy this change as the previous set-up was by a roadside, which wasn’t the most hygienic nor conducive to having a meal.

What I tried

Before I start getting sentimental, I thought I’d see what was so special about Ah Hor Teochew Kway Teow Noodle.

I had so many questions. What is it about the noodles that keep their customers coming back for more? Also, had the relocation compromised on their standard?

To start with, I stuck with the standard order, Kway Teow Dry (S$4). It was topped with braised mushrooms, slices of lean pork, fish cake, lettuce and fried ti por (sole fish). It also came with a bowl of soup but we’ll jump into that later.

Visually, it looked like any other dry noodles and I was curious to find out what set this one above others.

As I tossed the noodles, the aromatic kick of that chilli sauce was hard to ignore. The off-white kway teow (flat rice noodles) slowly became orange as each strand was coated with chilli.

Pay no attention to the vibrancy though, it’s not as lethal as it looks. At mild spiciness, the piquant, fragrant chilli paste was easily the winner of the dish.

I only wish I could be let in on their secret in creating the sauce, but hey, if people knew about it then I guess it wouldn’t be any more special then.

It was truly sensational as each bite reeled me back in for another. My guess is they used dried chilli, shallots, garlic, hae bee hiam (spicy dried shrimp paste). Oh, and add in more chilli—douse a whole saucer in—and just relish in that burning yet satisfying heat!

Another thing about Ah Hor Teochew Kway Teow Noodle’s bowl is their additional touch of ti por. Deep-fried to a nice crisp, it had a splendid crunch that was all too heavenly. It might seem a little over the top but it was the exact kind of extra that really amplified the dish.

I mean, they were so addictive that we couldn’t resist ordering a side plate of Flat Fish (S$3). It was a pretty small portion but I promise it’s worth the extra cash (and calories).

To change things up, I tried Dry Mee Kia (S$4), which basically swaps the carb choice with thin egg noodles.

Besides adding a touch of colour to the dish, I did prefer mee kia because of its firmer texture.

The noodles were a little undercooked which gave it an al dente texture, which I enjoyed.

Between this version and kway teow, I’d recommend going for the latter if you prefer a softer, silkier texture. Otherwise, stick with mee kia or mee pok (flat egg noodles) if you enjoy a good chew.

With such a powerful chilli sauce, it was no surprise their Kway Teow Soup (S$4), wasn’t as popular. Still, I thought it was imperative to give it a shot.

The simple dish had a lot more going on than the dry version, with herh keow (fish dumplings) and fish balls all in one bowl. It’s worth noting the dry version did also come with a bowl of soup with these ingredients, so no one’s really missing out.

Still, without that remarkable chilli, could it be anywhere on par?

Based on hearsay, the herh keow was a hit amongst loyal patrons. Wrapped in glossy, translucent dumpling skin, the tasty meat filling of fish and pork did not have the commercial factory-made taste.

I’m generally a more standard dumpling person and prefer pork fillings, like wantons. Yet, this one was rather delectable and I could see how Ah Hor Teochew Kway Teow Noodle maintained their following.

The soup had a plain, light base but it wasn’t anything noteworthy. However, try soaking a few ti por pieces in the soup as it adds saltiness to the broth and brings out a hearty flavour.

Final thoughts

And of course, the queue started to stream in after a while, mostly middle-aged and it became clear that Ah Hor Teochew Kway Teow Noodle was a local favourite for many.

If you ever swing by, stick with the dry noodle version. You simply can’t miss out on that extraordinary chilli and might I add—it’s definitely worth a special trip down.

While I’m in no position to comment on its standard before and after the relocation, Ah Hor Teochew Kway Teow Noodle still sets the bar high and be it dine-in or takeaway, count me in!

Expected damage: S$4 – S$5 per pax