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I’ve always been drawn to the places that don’t show up on everyone else’s itinerary, and for my birthday this year, I finally committed to the one that had been sitting at the top of that list for longer than I can remember: Kyrgyzstan.
It’s a country that barely registers on most people’s radar — rugged, remote, and refreshingly untouched by the kind of development that’s swallowed up so many other “hidden gems.” I wanted the version of Central Asia that still feels like Central Asia, and Kyrgyzstan in August delivered that in full: wildflower-strewn valleys, snow-capped peaks that appeared and vanished with the windswept clouds, wild horses outnumbering people for entire stretches of road, and villages where life still moves at the pace it always has.
I booked the trip through Offgrid Adventures, and it made all the difference. Our guide took care of everything — the food, the long mountain drives, the day-to-day logistics — but more than that, he made the whole thing fun. The kind of trip where the guide’s energy becomes part of the story itself, not just the person driving the jeep.
What follows is everything I saw, felt, and nearly fell off a horse experiencing, from the wildflower plains of the Karkyra Valley to the star-drenched silence of Song-Kol Lake, before crossing back into Kazakhstan to close out an unforgettable summer adventure.
Kegen Pass & Karkyra Valley
We drove across the barren, rugged landscape of the international frontier between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan.
The Kegen Pass opens into the Karkyra Valley, an immense green plateau that was bursting with summer wildflowers at the time. Yet, snow-capped peaks peeked at us from the distance, appearing and disappearing as clouds raced across the sky.
Much of this high-altitude landscape is entirely untouched by modern development; horses ranged across the hills and valleys alone or in small herds, and every structure we saw was made of wood or hide.
It was a wonderfully cinematic introduction to a nation I had never imagined I would visit.
Karakol
Our descent into eastern Kyrgyzstan led us to the historic town of Karakol.
The warm summer air carried the scent of wild herbs and wildflowers as the dramatic mountain scenery slowly gave way to settlements. You’ll notice that almost all the buildings here are just 1 storey high, which gives you the unspoiled sight of miles and miles of sky in every direction.
We arrived with plenty of daylight left and took the opportunity to explore the town’s culinary heritage. Our restaurant even had an extended cultural performance — the beautiful traditional costumes and lively lilting music made for a wonderful backdrop.
Altyn-Arashan
Our adventure took a rugged but even more mesmerisingly beautiful turn when we travelled up the steep, rocky gorge of Altyn-Arashan, a name which translates to “Golden Spa.”
If you are up for a medium-hard 5- to 7-hour uphill trek, you will have rushing mountain rivers, verdant pine forests and the occasional glimpse of wildlife to spur you along. The motorised alternative may seem like a breeze but, believe me, it will be the bumpiest and, occasionally, most heart-stopping cliff-hugging drive of your life!
Spread across the vast, plateau-like summit are a series of established camps with yurts but we also came across trekkers who simply set up their own Decathlon-type tents wherever the view was best. Some were perched uncomfortably (for me) near the edges that looked down upon the rivers hundreds of feet below.
The absolute highlight of this trip for me was the thermal spring bath. Pleasantly hot, mineral-rich mountain water gushes right out of the earth, and they have created little wooden huts around them. Our hour of soaking up the divine goodness into our aching muscles was over too soon.
Jety-Oguz Gorge
After a just-as-bumpy descent from Altyn-Arashan, we headed to the red sandstone cliffs of Jety-Oguz Gorge.
I’ve seen sandstone cliffs and I’ve seen windswept sandstone cliffs but the Jety-Oguz Gorge is unique for its patterns. The deep rifts in the stone are diagonal, creating natural structures that look instead like they were deliberately sculpted with aesthetics in mind. The play of light and shadow on the red rock is stunning.
That play of colour is especially beautiful as it stands against the lush carpets of green August grass covering the surrounding hills.
However, I was surprised and quite sad to see that construction has commenced just a few hundred metres away from this magnificent natural formation. Apparently, you will be able to see the Seven Bulls right from your hotel soon…
Issyk-Kul Lake
My mood lifted as we drew closer to the stunning Issyk-Kul Lake. At first sight, I thought it was the ocean — the opposite shore was hidden beyond the horizon — no surprises, as it is the world’s second-largest saline lake.
It is also one of the deepest lakes on the planet, and its blue waters shone brilliantly under the summer sun. We didn’t spend much time here but the beach was alive with families, while sea craft ranging from paddle boats to jet skis enjoyed the warm water.
It’s a great picnic spot with the green mountains behind you and this dazzling sight in front.
Skazka Canyon
More red awaited at Skazka Canyon, popularly known as Fairytale Valley; in a way, it was easy to think that I had been transported to Mars!
Skazka’s topography is less angular than that of the Jety-Oguz Gorge. Still, some sections of the undulating hills and obtuse rises hid surprisingly difficult climbs, and narrow, just-wide-enough-to-walk ridgelines await the intrepid.
I’ll just say that if you do want to explore the less-trodden path, bring along gloves as you will end up on hands and knees to tackle several routes. The thorny plants await your soft fingers…
While red dominates, the soft, wind-carved clay hills also feature vibrant colours ranging from burnt oranges to striking yellows. It’s a pleasant backdrop for photos but I think I was so mesmerised by the sight that I took fewer snaps than I should have.
Bokonbaevo
We took off early the next morning, heading down the dusty roads that lead to the village of Bokonbaevo, a renowned centre for traditional Kyrgyz falconry. Even on the way there, we could see wild falcons circling the skies, usually alone but sometimes in pairs.
We arrived on a great plain where we were met by villagers whose entire lives for generations have revolved around falconry. Their ancestors provided for their people with this skill when the hunting was especially difficult in the wintry mountains.
They are also expert horsemen and archers. Like, at the same time.
We were given a demonstration where straw effigies were pierced by the arrows of a rider thundering past. If you’ve ever struggled to keep your balance on a galloping horse with both hands on the reins, you can truly appreciate what a staggering achievement this is.
The falcons themselves are gigantic creatures with massive, made-for-hunting beaks. Seeing them up close and touching their silky feathers was slightly nerve-wracking but entirely thrilling.
We all tried our hands at archery. I met with – ahem – average success.
Moldo-Ashuu Pass
On our way to the Moldo-Ashuu Pass, we were surprised to see a long line of cars parked along the otherwise desolate highway. A herd of camels!
Numbering about 30, the double-humped Bactrians were crossing from the mountains on our left to drink at the lake on our right. Our guide said that we were very lucky because he’d lived his whole life there and never seen such a huge group.
After that lovely sighting at sea level, we tackled the legendary switchbacks of the Moldo-Ashuu Pass, ascending to a dizzying 3,200 metres. The geography of Kyrgyzstan really does change dramatically.
It was a refreshing breath of crisp, clean alpine air that greeted us on the slopes. While navigating the serpentine switchbacks was thrilling (bring motion sickness pills if that’s not your thing), the view from the top is the real prize.
We took in panoramic vistas of jagged mountains and emerald valleys flourishing at the peak of the growing season. It’s very windy here, too, so bring a windbreaker if you want to spend time taking photos in the open.
Song-Kol Lake
Our guide saved the best for second last. Song-Kol Lake had been on my bucket list even before I knew where it was!
We approached in the most wonderful way — our jeep went over a rise in the road and on the other side emerged the vast blueness of this remote alpine plateau. I think my breath actually caught the moment my eyes beheld the sight.
At 3,016 metres, this is just a tad lower than the Moldo-Ashuu Pass, but we would be staying here overnight — if you’re asthmatic like me, this is where you will most likely need your puffs.
Traditional Kyrgyz yurt encampments dot the lakeside, far enough apart that they do not affect the view or feel that you are here to seek. There were more wild horses here that I think I will ever see in my life — herds as large as 30 roamed the green hills and lake shore, some galloping together majestically like something out of a painting.
I finally got back in the saddle after decades here, and one of the local horsemen took us on an hour-long trek around the area. Up hill and down dale we went, and my naughty horse even went into the water!
It’s one thing to be riding but to experience it in a place with the untouched surreal beauty of Song-Kol Lake was almost too much to handle.
We spent the night in our huge yurt that was warmed by a traditional fire stove. There is no electricity here and no phone data, either. If you want time to reconnect with nature and with each other, this is the best place to do it.
Because it’s so far from civilisation and the air is so pure, the night sky is a wondrous sight. We did spend some time appreciating the brilliant clarity of the Milky Way but it was so cold that we rushed inside all too soon.
No doubt in my mind — this was the absolute pinnacle of our Kyrgyz adventure!
Kok-Moinok Canyons
I had never heard of the Kok-Moinok Canyons before my trip but the moment I laid eyes on them I thought of Petra in Jordan.
The midsummer sun seemed to make the colours especially vibrant, casting dramatic shadows across flat ridges and lonely spires as we approached. Then, we descended.
Seemingly endless labyrinthine passages twist through wind- and water-eroded clay canyons. At some points, the cliffs press in on both sides, leaving barely enough space for a single person to pass. And then, there are the sharp turns that appear like a dead end until you reach the wall and see the path continues. Slightly scary!
It was such a stark (but beautiful) contrast to the wide-open pastures of Song-Kol we had just left.
Bishkek
Our road eventually led back to the bustle of the Kyrgyz capital, Bishkek. The summer energy of the city was infectious, and we plunged straight into the sensory overload of souvenir shopping.
Wandering through the labyrinth of stalls, we spent hours picking up authentic Central Asian souvenirs, admiring handmade felt crafts, and savouring the rich scents of local spices and fresh summer fruits before our departure.
Almaty, Kazakhstan
The final leg of our journey required a cross-border highway drive to Kazakhstan. As I watched the majestic mountains roll by our window one last time, the golden August afternoon light bathed the passing scenery in a warm glow.
It was a smooth, contemplative drive that brought me back into Almaty with plenty of time to grab a final meal, unwind and reflect on an extraordinary summer adventure before catching our late-night flight home.
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