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I can’t believe it took me over 2 decades to discover Kedah-style nasi lemak. If this is news to you too, let me put you on. Unlike the usual nasi lemak with white coconut rice, the Kedah version swaps it out for fragrant yellow rice, also known as traditional nasi kuning. One of the go-to spots in KL and Selangor for this twist on a classic is none other than Nasi Lemak Royale Kedah.
They’ve got several outlets around, but according to my dad (self-proclaimed professional Ampang navigator), the original one in Ampang is still the best. With the highest rating on Google reviews among the bunch, it seems like the public agrees.
Now, if you think yellow rice is already a big twist, Nasi Lemak Royale Kedah takes it up a notch. Think nasi kandar style — no sambal, no ikan bilis, and no hard-boiled egg in sight. Instead, you get to pile on a variety of rich, flavourful side dishes. And yes, I also asked myself, “Where’s the nasi lemak in all this?” But hey, can you really call yourself a foodie if you’re not open to a little adventure now and then?
What I tried at Nasi Lemak Royale Kedah
My dining partner and I showed up absolutely starving, so we didn’t hold back. We piled our shared plate high with fried chicken, squid eggs, mixed gravy, boiled ladyfingers, and a hard-boiled salted egg. The grand total ended up at a hefty RM19, but we were ready for the feast.
The yellow rice, generously doused in kuah kicap and a touch of curry, was wonderfully fluffy with each grain holding its own. Though, to be fair, it leaned slightly toward the mushy side. It was well-seasoned with turmeric and aromatics, and I’m guessing there was a hint of margarine or ghee. The gravy added a much-needed savoury touch without being too bold or overwhelming.
Now, the classic mamak-style fried chicken was done right. Juicy, tender, and cut into easy-to-eat pieces, it was seasoned all the way through without going overboard on the spices.
The squid eggs came bathed in what seemed to be a mild gulai, though the gravy didn’t quite shine through. The eggs themselves were impressively large and melt-in-your-mouth tender, but a little too fishy for my taste, which dampened the experience just a tad.
As for the sides, the boiled ladyfingers were passable and nothing to write home about. The salted egg, on the other hand, leaned very heavily on the salty side, so fair warning if you prefer things a bit more gentle on the palate.
Final thoughts
Nasi Lemak Royale Kedah honestly exceeded my expectations. I’ll admit, I’m not the biggest fan of nasi kandar. So the idea of having something that closely resembled it didn’t exactly excite me. But to my surprise, I actually ended up enjoying it!
That said, if you’re in search of a true-blue Kedah-style nasi lemak complete with sambal, ikan bilis, and all the classic additions, this might not be quite what you’re looking for. Still, it’s a delicious detour worth taking if you’re open to something a little different.
Expected damage: RM14 – RM20 per pax
