Malaysia
Singapore
Thailand
Wanton Mee is a dish most Singaporeans know like their back of their hand, so it’s quite tough to impress the average person. Yet, Pin Xiang Wanton Mee in Toa Payoh Palm Spring Market has stood the test of time for decades. Why?
I was further enticed after reading that they offered chicken feet, and as the sole chicken feet lover at the office, I felt obligated to try.
The owner had such an infectious energy, greeting and handing me a piece of tissue even before we ordered. I later learned that she’s been working at the stall since she was 17 years old, and celebrating their 30th anniversary this year.
She and her husband wake up at 2.30am and 3am respectively to prepare for their 4.30am opening time, which is usually when I fall asleep.
We caught her conversing with customers as if they were long-time friends, casually offering them extra servings of char siew and wanton.
What I tried at Pin Xiang Wanton Mee
I started with their Wanton Mee (S$4 for small, S$5 for large), served with mee kia, char siew, 2 wantons served in a separate bowl, and 2 mushrooms. I added on 2 legs of chicken feet (+S$2), with the kind auntie offering a 3rd on the house.
As I dug my chopsticks into the mee kia for your cliche noodle pull shot, I noticed how loose and springy they were, even after being left out on the table for photos. The noodles had a very natural and nostalgic flavour, coated with a dark soy sauce, bringing spicy hints.
You could already tell how soft their braised mushrooms were from the looks alone. When I bit down, peppery juices seeped out of the mushroom cap’s gills like a waterfall.
Their wantons were no slouches either. Hand-wrapped and stuffed with a mixture of minced pork and their secret ingredient— ban yu fish bits. It’s a rare combination, but one that harmonises well.
While the wanton skin tasted a little average, it allowed the filling to take the spotlight. I wish they were a little more generous with the wantons, as I only received 2.
The highlight was their chicken feet, in all its 3-pronged glory. It was nearly the size of my hand, with the palm easily separating from the plantar with a mere tug.
The collagen-filled foot left a garlic and ginger-like aftertaste, too. When I asked the owner how long she had cooked the chicken feet, she said that they had been simmering for 7 hours. No wonder it was so soft.
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The weak link, however, was their char siew. It was quite dry, which was odd since everything else absorbed the sauce well after a thorough toss. Chewing felt like biting through soft bone, which negated most of the sweetness the char siew was trying to convey.
Perhaps they were using a different char siew when I came because the images I found online all looked succulent with a strong red-hued outer layer, while mine appeared dull.
I also tried their Ipoh-style Shredded Chicken & Mushrooms Hor Fun (S$4 for small, S$5 for large), which came with a serving of hor fun swimming in dark soy sauce and bits of white shredded chicken.
Initially, I wasn’t all that impressed by its presentation after the whirlpool of flavours that was the wanton mee, as this looked pretty tame and safe in comparison.
My assumptions were thrown out rather quickly after I took my first bite of the hor fun. It had the same spiciness as the wanton mee, but was elevated by the smooth hor fun noodles absorbing every drop of the sauce. In a sense, the plain hor fun allowed the soy sauce to paint its own picture on the hor fun’s canvas.
The shredded chicken bits were rather bland on their own, as they don’t absorb the sauce as well. But it isn’t meant to be eaten like that. When consumed together with the noodles, it counters the heat and provides a more well-rounded bite.
The amount of shredded chicken bits was on the conservative side, but don’t be afraid to ask for a bit more. I’m sure they’d happily oblige if you ask nicely.
Final thoughts
Pin Xiang Wanton Mee thoroughly deserves their fame with how special their dishes are. It provides a comfy and homely taste while also kicking you with a powerful peppery heat. Not to mention how they make every customer feel welcome.
This brand of stall can only exist through careful nurturing of community love and precise refinement of recipes, which the wonderful aunty and uncle have in spades.
When you decide to pop by, make sure to greet them with a smile, and maybe they’ll give you an extra wanton for your kindness.
Expected damage: S$4 – S$7 per pax
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