Wang Hinghoi: Thai-inspired Themed Set Menu At A Restaurant With Fireflies In Bangkok

If you’re looking to treat yourself to some experiential dining while in Bangkok, put Wang Hinghoi on your list. True to its name — as wang hinghoi means ‘firefly nest’ in Thai — the restaurant is the only place in the city where you can enjoy a spectacular view of hundreds of these glowing creatures.

This gastronomic destination is set to be open for just 18 months, just like the lifespan of fireflies! It serves rotating contemporary Thai set menus designed around the elements Earth, Water, Wind, and Fire. Yes, slightly gimmicky, but I think they are executing things pretty tastefully.

Located on Petchburi Road, one of Bangkok’s most congested areas, the venue makes for a beautiful oasis despite its unlikely surroundings. Upon arriving, I was greeted with a quaint garden followed by a long pathway shielded by massive wooden walls that leads towards the restaurant’s entrance.

The area was decked with striking installations by artist Banvithit Wilawan and curator Alizz Vichchou. Titled “Lava”, the light, visual, and sound exhibition was created under the theme of Fire, which will be featured simultaneously with the last food concept.

I was escorted into the dining area, which I found tastefully simulated a forest setting. Dimly lit with a garden view, the space would make a cinematic backdrop for any special occasion.

Until the end of September 2019, diners will be served the nine-course Spirit of Fire set menu (THB 2,890). You also have the option of complementing the meal with Thai-inspired cocktail pairings (THB 550).

The first amuse-bouche, Ignite, arrived in a box. Inside, a crisp strip of papadum (Indian flatbread) was topped with dried fruit chutney, which featured subtle hints of Thai chilli paste.

Accompanying this flavourful starter was a petite cup of sweet potato ginger soup. While smooth with a subtle kick of spice, it was interestingly completed with bacon foam.

A beautiful, single serving of oyster arrived next. Named Awake, it was certainly a refreshing pick-me-up that easily became one of my favourite dishes of the night.

Fresh Hokkaido oyster, pickled with yuzu juice, was presented with a light hollandaise sauce, crunchy deep-fried shallots, and fresh blueberry slices. The result was a bright and umami bite — a brilliant teaser for the rest of the meal.

The next course, Ashes, was served on a wooden platter. A crisp yet juicy piece of deep-fried sepat fish was presented with a luscious salsa of tomatoes, pomegranate jewels and charcoal rocks. These icy rocks are in fact made from Thai-style seafood sauce, which added flavoursome oomph to the dish.

Playfully named Sunbath, a slice of grilled Australian wagyu arrived on a hot stone. I was told to feast right away otherwise the beef would overcook!

With a good drizzle of the accompanying pickled bean curd sauce — reminiscent of sukiyaki dressing — the strip loin certainly did not fail to impress. The beef was incredibly tender and the sauce was scrumptiously sweet and tangy at once. Downside? I would have fancied more than one slice.

A soup course followed right after. Introduced as Aurora (hinting at Northern lights), a generous piece of roasted pork belly was served with steamed broccolini and crispy tofu skin, immersed in a sous-vided broccoli soup.

While fatty, the pork belly was well tenderised and went well with the creamy soup.

At this point, I was yearning for a light palate cleanser to prepare me for the main course, and it came in the form of the next dish: Firework.

A smooth, coconut-based virgin Pinã Colada cream was whimsically presented with a myriad of fresh fruits, popping candy sprinkles and thick beetroot, carrot and pandan-flavoured mousses. Together, the combination was both creative and energising.

For the main course, my friend and I selected different dishes to share. While you could pick between the catfish and pork belly platters without any extra charges, you could also go for two other alternatives with add-ons to your bill.

The first pick was Erupt (an additional THB 1,200), a dish featuring grilled river prawn. Plump with a hint of charcoal, the prawn was lightly seasoned and perfectly cooked.

It was complemented with a tangy dollop of rice wok-fried with tamarind sauce, which had a moist consistency that resembled risotto. While the dish was surely good enough to satisfy any prawn lover’s appetite, I preferred the next dish.

Named Rage (an additional THB 600), the picture-perfect beef platter featured flavours inspired by the popular Thai ‘boat noodle’, or Nam Tok, in which the broth usually consists of spices, dark soy sauce, pickled bean curd, and pig or cow blood.

Dressed with a full-bodied Chinese five-spice sauce, each bite of the medium-rare tenderloin was especially luscious. The accompanying crispy hash brown noodles also offered a pleasant contrast of textures to the serving.

The set menu concluded with two dessert items. First, we were presented Ice Lava, which highlighted a boozy scoop of fermented rice ice cream paired with a sweet longan sauce.

Then came my favourite: Rising Sun. Fresh milk bingsu (Korean-style shaved ice) was served with soft, homemade grass jelly and icy rose rocks. Together, each component created a delicate and dreamy last course.

Most definitely, the Wang Hinghoi experience did not end there. After our meal, we were led to a dark room at the back of the restaurant. Inside, there was nothing but a long sofa that faced a garden behind a glass wall.

The garden is home to an enclosed ecosystem of hundreds of fireflies — yes, in this magical room, you get to round off a delicious dinner by basking in a spellbinding glow.

It was truly a romantic sight, but unfortunately capturing this moment through videos or photographs was impossible; my pictures do not do it justice. These outlandish images are merely proof that I was really there!

The Spirit of Fire set menu is confirmed to be available until the end of September 2019. For the restaurant’s remaining months, it has yet to be decided whether this series will continue, or if there will be a menu recreating popular dishes from each theme. Menu updates will be available on the Facebook page, so do keep an eye out.

Expected Damage: THB 3,400++ per pax