Lai Heng Mushroom Minced Meat Noodle is a bak chor mee institution in Toa Payoh that has relocated twice and has been operating since 1985. Back then when my polytechnic buddy and I were 20, we would regularly patronise the stall’s original location at Block 85C Lorong 2 Toa Payoh.
Jeez, we were so young then. I vividly remember its robust vinegary taste and the unique addition of fried bian yu (dried sole fish) that added a unique burst of umami-ness. I can confidently say that this stall made me an official fan of the dish.

Following an unsuccessful attempt to sell the family business for half a million dollars in 2022, the youngest sister has now taken the helm.

So here I am, 20 years later, visiting the spot at 73 Lorong 4 Toa Payoh. My friend from poly, who first introduced me to this place, still visits the stall religiously. Now, for the ultimate question… does this place still possess the same magic that made me adore bak chor mee? Let’s find out!
What I tried at Lai Heng Mushroom Minced Meat Noodle

The reason why I ordered the large S$7 Dry Mee Kia was because I wanted the bits of fried sole fish. Guess what? My hopes were shattered when I realised that they’ve stopped including that ingredient — noooooo! A visit to their Google Reviews page revealed that the sole fish bits had been gone for at least 7 years, based on the photos I saw.
The mound of mee kia was covered with slices of pork, minced pork, Chinese mushrooms, and tau geh.

To save the ingredients from awkwardness, I played matchmaker — tossing the noodles, toppings, and sauce together like it was speed-dating night in a bowl. The thin strands of mee kia had transformed from a pale yellow to a rich reddish hue. I slurped on my first mouthful and wasn’t ready for the fiery heat that hit me like a mini stick of dynamite. I choked a little and my senses were instantly jolted — the spice was definitely not for the faint-hearted.

Overcooked pig’s liver can be unpleasant, with a powdery texture that many dislike. Fortunately, the liver slices here were cooked to a perfect medium-well, making each tender, flavourful piece a joy to eat. The mushrooms added an earthy punch of flavour while the minced pork bits were creamy and unctuous.
Yong Xin 永薪: One of the best bak chor mee & dry noodles in Ang Mo Kio

Bak chor mee may look like a humble bowl of noods, but in actual fact, it’s a complex dish. Everyone has differing opinions on what makes it yummy: some like it spicy, others drench it in vinegar for a zesty tang. My noodles came out spicy, savoury and tasty. The only thing missing? It wasn’t acidic enough. Luckily, the stall had a trusty bottle of Chinkiang vinegar right out front— a secret remedy ready to save the day.

We then moved on to the Kway Teow Soup (S$5), which turned out to be the unexpected highlight of our meal. To me, soup versions will always be the supporting crew while dry ones will end up being the lead character. However, in Lai Heng Mushroom Minced Meat noodle’s case, this belief was smashed to smithereens!
To the naked eye, it may seem like any run-of-the-mill kway teow soup, but in actual fact, it had tons of character.

Let me begin by giving the unassuming, clear broth its well-deserved five seconds of fame. Each drop of soup had fully absorbed the aromatic notes of pork lard, giving each spoonful an extra dimension of flavour.

Now, take that delicious soup and amp it up with seaweed. Woah! An additional depth of umami-ness had just joined the party. It was so addictive that I’d nearly forgotten that it had noodles and other gems, too!

The silky-smooth kway teow noodles were excellent at soaking up the broth, absorbing the liquid like a sponge. Each bite was complemented by the crunch of the tau geh, the pillowy slices of pork, and the woody hints of mushroom. This bowl definitely deserves a special place in my noodle soup recommendations list.
Final thoughts

As creatures of habit, I have to admit that even though the dry noodles at Lai Heng Mushroom Minced Meat Noodle were delicious, I still found myself missing the fried sole fish pieces. You could call it a warm déjà vu hug that I’ve dearly missed for 2 decades. From what I remember, the noodles at their first location was still the best I ever had. Otherwise, for those that are new to this stall, this place serves better than average bak chor mee, both dry and soup.
To the loyal fans who have been following them since their days at 85C Lorong 2 Toa Payoh, do you guys agree with what I shared? Do share in the comments.
Expected damage: S$5 – S$7 per pax