Malaysia
Singapore
Thailand
I was working on my Redhill Food Centre guide a few months back when I stumbled upon a stellar plate of char siew wanton mee from a stall called Fei Zai Xiang Shao La Wanton Mee. Only later did I find out that its owner had honed his craft under the late Chan Tuck Cheong, better known as legendary roast maestro Fatty Cheong.
I’d heard plenty about Fatty Cheong and his fabled stall in ABC Brickworks Food Centre, but never got around to trying it. But if his apprentice’s char siew already had me floored, then surely the master’s roasts had to be on another level. I knew then that I simply had to visit.
Seeing double? Fatty Cheong runs not just one, but two units in the buzzing food centre. Considering how they’re a fair distance apart — one at the entrance, the other tucked way inside, I was set on sticking to just one. That was, until I realised the former specialises in roast meats while the latter handles wanton mee and other noodles. In the name of research, I couldn’t possibly skip either.
As for queues, don’t bother strategising. Both lines were relentless — but we should all know waiting is practically a rite of passage when it comes to good food.
Which leaves the big question: does this legend live up to its glowing reputation?
What I tried at Fatty Cheong
Seeing that the main stall is still run by the late Mr Cheong’s wife and son, I knew I could rest assured that I was in good hands. I wasted no time and headed straight for the Roast Meat Trio (S$16 for 2 pax, S$8 for 1 pax), a platter starring the holy trifecta of Char Siew, Roasted Pork and Roasted Duck.
Often hailed as the “best in Singapore”, Fatty Cheong’s Char Siew is made with the prized bu jian tian cut and charcoal-grilled for a smoky finish. The slices that landed on my plate were hefty, with a tender bite that never veered into stringy dryness. The caramelisation was spot-on, too: glossy, sweet and savoury in equal measure.
That said, it leaned a little too much on the lean side for me, shy of that luscious fattiness that makes char siew truly swoon-worthy. More importantly, I found myself wishing for more of those blistered, charred edges, which would have lent the meat a much-needed smokiness. This was solid char siew, no doubt, but it stopped short of #1 in my books.
The Roasted Pork fared better in terms of balance — each chunk offered a pleasing contrast between juicy meat and fat, all crowned with a crackly shard of skin.
But enjoyable as it was to the bite, it unfortunately fell short in flavour. The seasoning didn’t quite sing, leaving the pork to rely a little too heavily on its texture instead of the full-bodied savouriness I was hoping for. It nailed the crunch and lean-fat ratio, but wasn’t particularly outstanding beyond that.
Then came the generous Roasted Duck leg, its meat tender and refreshingly free from any gamey undertones. Its skin, though delicate, carried enough richness to give each bite a layer of unctuous depth.
While this final musketeer surprised me best, I must lament that my enjoyment was slightly tempered by the bones. Granted, they’re par for the course with duck legs, but they did pull me out of the otherwise silky rhythm of the meat. Nonetheless, for flavour and texture alone, it definitely held its own.
Xiao Di Charcoal Roasted Delights: Succulent char-kissed roast meats you can’t get enough of
Next up, I headed in and snagged a plate of Wanton Noodles with Egg (S$4.80) for good measure. This was, after all, the dish I first fell in love with; this time with a bonus fried egg, which I added out of pure curiosity because, well, the idea sounded delicious.
The mee kia noodles were springy and cooked to a nice al dente, with no unpleasant alkaline aftertaste (huge win, in my opinion). They were slicked in a tasty mix of dark sauce, mildly spicy chilli and fragrant lard oil, each strand well-coated and flavour-packed.
The glossy sunny-side-up egg added a touch of richness with its jammy yolk — a satisfying topping for sure, even if the pairing was hardly one that was written in the stars. Perhaps a more molten yolk could’ve worked wonders?
Now, the char siew here came as a pleasant surprise. Compared to the roast meat stall, this cut had a noticeably better lean-fat balance, with that same sweet-savoury glaze clinging to its succulent heft. Whatever they’re doing differently at this unit, it hit that sweet spot — and I’d happily take seconds.
Completing the ensemble were two wantons tucked snugly within the tangle of noodles. Each was a neat little parcel of savoury minced meat wrapped in silky skin — just simple goodness rounding out the meal.
Final thoughts
So, did Fatty Cheong blow me away? Sadly, not quite, but it certainly left me plenty impressed.
While a handful of elements fell a tad short, it’s abundantly clear that their meats are roasted with care and skill, and no wonder they’ve stayed firmly among Singapore’s top roast meat stalls. I’d happily come back for another round any day — because dang, the char siew and wanton noodles absolutely hit the spot.
Expected damage: S$4 – S$8.50 per pax
