Malaysia
Singapore
Thailand
Hei Po Po, a hor fun stall at Old Airport Road Food Centre has been quietly operating for nearly 2 years since its opening on 1 Jul 2023. With over 160 stalls available at the hawker centre, owner Zephyr finds it a challenge to get customers to try his food, since there are other popular options around.
Fueled by their love for the unique and rich flavours of local cuisine, Zephyr decided to open a stall specialising in hor fun. It isn’t the usual smoky, wok hei-heavy kind, but more like the Ipoh-style version that stalls in Singapore offer.
It consists of thin, flat rice noodles drenched in a thick, savoury gravy that gets its flavour from a mix of seafood and chicken.
Since this taste is rarely found on our shores, they decided to learn the ropes and make it a business. It’s run mostly by his wife, 35-year-old Qingying, and his mum, who try their best to keep their food consistent and good everyday.
What I tried at Hei Po Po
There were 6 varieties of hor fun to choose from, including an atas Crayfish Hor Fun (S$10/S$14.50). Since I’m not particularly obsessed with crustaceans like lobster and crayfish, I decided to skip that and go for the Pacific Clam Hor Fun (S$7) instead.
The heap of flat rice noodles was generously slathered in a brownish gravy, topped with 2 prawns, a cluster of pacific clams, and green vegetables. Right before tucking in, we caught a whiff of peppery notes rising from the plate.
The gravy was dense and gooey, clinging well onto the strands of ivory-hued hor fun like a snug glove. As expected from the aroma we got earlier, the sauce was savoury with a mild heat of pepper slowly creeping in.
Zephyr mentioned that the broth uses seafood, but I was struggling to detect any traces of umami. That being said, I did find it much tastier than the usual Ipoh hor fun that I get from other hawker stalls.
The prawns, with just the tail intact, were firm, sweet and decently fresh. The pacific clams were chewy and delectable with its slight briny flavour. Having it with the pillowy hor fun made a really good textural contrast.
We also tried the small Chicken Hor Fun (S$4.80) that was served with shredded chicken, a solo prawn and green vegetables. Aside from the smaller portion of ingredients, I honestly felt it wasn’t too far off from the regular size — pretty good value for money, if you ask me.
The chicken shreds might not look like much, but the humble pulled meat pleasantly surprised me. It turned out to be exceptionally tender and cooked to perfection.
The chilli was a little diluted and its flavour was a tad underwhelming for us, failing to leave a lasting impression.
We also tried the Prawn Wanton Soup (S$5), featuring house-made dumplings served with greens in a light, delicate broth.
The broth might look unassuming, but it actually packed a light prawn flavour. And judging from the lone prawn shell I discovered inside, it’s clear they’re using crustacean shells to draw out that natural seafood taste.
Instead of the usual minced meat, the handmade wantons were filled with chunky pieces of prawn. If the idea was to go meatless, I actually think minced prawn might’ve worked better. They could’ve also added slightly chunkier bits for texture — but hey, that’s just my humble opinion.
Final thoughts
On days when I’m craving something simple and light, Ipoh-style hor fun is always on my radar, and Hei Po Po definitely prepares this dish better than other places. It’s a simple dish that, frankly, doesn’t quite have the wow factor compared to its bolder cousins like cai poh hor fun or black pepper beef hor fun — but that’s kind of its charm.
If you’re seeking a comforting, no frills meal, why not swing by Old Airport Road Food Centre and give them a try?
Expected damage: S$4.80 – S$14.50 per pax
Cai (財): Rumoured $5 hor fun with the richest wok hei in the West
