[SHIFTED] Joy Pan Authentic Yam Abacus: Homemade abacus seeds in unique flavours like sambal & tom yum from $3.50

I brought one of my regular dining companions, Lily, to search for Joy Pan Authentic Yam Abacus. It’s a specialty stall located within the confines of Marsiling Mall, renowned for its abacus seeds.

Now, I’ve only seen this mall through the windows of the MRT whenever my train whizzes by, but have not actually set foot in.

Joy Pan Authentic Yam Abacus is a 2-month old stall operated by 52-year-old Lilian. I was intrigued when I saw sambal– and tom yum- flavoured yam abacus on the menu.

Lilian exclaimed, “I did my own experimentation and crafted those creations myself”. With her Hokkien heritage, Lilian acquired the skill of crafting yam abacus seeds from her mother, which clarifies the absence of the term ‘Hakka’ on the signboard.

Unfortunately, due to personal reasons, the stall will be operating until 30 Nov 2023 before it becomes a home-based business. From 1 Dec onwards, you can still order her dishes via this link.

What I tried at Joy Pan Authentic Yam Abacus

I decided to start off with the most basic flavour, the Dark Sauce Yam Abacus (S$3.50). Lilian also has a large option available for S$5.50.

The abacus seeds are stir-fried together with dark soya and other seasonings together with a minced pork mixture that contains finely-sliced black fungus. After plating it, she drizzles fragrant fried shallots drenched in oil and garnishes with chopped coriander.

From the very first bite, I was won over. The interplay of seasonings in the minced meat and black fungus mixture was flawless, striking a harmonious balance of saltiness that didn’t overpower my palate.

The alluring aroma of the fried shallots and the oil it was bathed in embraced every corner of my mouth. Simultaneously, the coriander introduced citrusy and floral undertones.

I’ve encountered abacus seeds which were either too chewy or tough, which made me too jelak after 3 or 4 spoonfuls. However, Lilian’s rendition was a delicate balance, with a softer, lighter texture and an appealing firmness that left me craving for more.

“Aaron, please control yourself, you have 4 more dishes to go!” I thought to myself.

Compared to the Dark Sauce flavour, the Sambal Yam Abacus (S$3.50) was visually more moist, with its ingredients doused in a bright-red gravy.

After giving the ingredients a good mix, a glossy layer of crimson-hued chilli oil enveloped each component, causing the plate of Sambal Yam Abacus to shimmer brilliantly beneath the early afternoon sunlight.

The sambal injected an extra layer of umami shrimp flavour to the yam abacus seeds, elevating the overall flavour to the next level.

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After savouring my first mouthful, I couldn’t help but think, “The previous one was good, but this dish is on a whole new level.”

Before succumbing to a potential food coma induced by the yam abacus seeds, I took a breather and moved on to the Taiwan Braised Pork Rice (S$5.50). Instead of the usual mini pieces of pork belly, Lilian prepares hers with Dongpo pork, which is quintessentially a thick cut of pork belly that has been pan-fried and then stewed for 1.5 hours.

She cuts the pork belly into bite-sized pieces with a pair of scissors and serves it with a braised egg, peanuts and a mound of rice with the pork’s braising liquid spooned over it and topped with fried shallots.

The fat of the pork belly was luxuriously silky, akin to melting butter in my mouth. However, when it came to the meaty portion, the contrast was evident. The meat exhibited a slightly tougher texture, with meat fibres clinging to my teeth, providing a bit of a chewier encounter.

With just a bit more time in the braise, this dish could have easily earned a perfect 10 out of 10 from me.

The rice absorbed the flavours of the braising liquid, which possessed gentle notes of star anise. When combined with the fried shallots,  it was an utterly heavenly taste sensation.

We also savoured the Tom Yum Noodles (S$4), which consisted of thick bee hoon stir-fried with 2 prawns, carrot slices, minced pork and black fungus. It was then jazzed up with fresh coriander and a calamansi.

Squeezing the calamansi and giving the noodles a thorough toss proved to be a great move, bringing in a lovely brightness to the plate and accentuating the delicate tom yum spices interwoven within the thick bee hoon.

The inclusion of black fungus and carrots not only enhanced the visual appeal of the dish but also introduced varying textural contrasts.

The pair of prawns were rather large. After engaging in the delightful mess of peeling them, I was duly rewarded with succulent, delectable flesh.

Having enjoyed 2 main courses, I circled back to the Tom Yum Yam Abacus (S$3.50). In stark contrast to the sambal variant, this dish boasted a noticeably-milder flavour profile, with the tom yum spices delicately caressing my taste buds.

Final thoughts

Honestly, upon learning that Lilian’s 2-month-old stall was closing its doors by the end of November, I couldn’t help but feel disappointed.

Ladies and gentlemen, if you happen to be in the vicinity, I urge you to make your way to Joy Pan Authentic Yam Abacus to show your support to Lilian during her final month of operation (and to get a taste of the delicious dishes).

Thankfully, all is not lost, as they will continue to offer culinary delights through their home-based business, serving a smaller-scale menu.

To order, click here.

Expected damage: S$3.50 – S$8.50 per pax

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