Malaysia
Singapore
Thailand
Reigning MasterChef Singapore Inderpal Singh does things with deliberate ease. After winning Season 4 of the popular reality TV show in 2023, he didn’t jump headlong into the field, opting to travel the world instead. The time, the experiences and the inspiration he gleaned has culminated in fun contemporary dining establishment Meh’r on South Bridge Road.
Named after his daughter, Meh’r celebrates modern interpretations of Southeast Asian street food. Influences from Bali, Thailand, Malaysia and India abound; there are hints of lessons from the pop-ups he did across India, as well as the finesse of his time as a private dining chef.
Above the 30-seat restaurant is intimate rooftop bar Phool House with its pleasant views of MBS.
What I tried at Meh’r
Our journey began with an Amuse Bouche of watermelon, honeydew and dragon fruit tossed in dehydrated basil alongside laksa and curry leaves. It is presented as a dry paani-poori inside delicate puffed semolina shells.
As a paani-poori fan, I was happily surprised by this dry incarnation of my favourite Indian street food. Despite it being ‘dry’, the use of water-rich fruits manifested an on-the-go juice that was perkily enhanced by the basil and curry leaves. It was a wonderfully creative way to start our experience at Meh’r.
That emphasis on creativity – extracting something extraordinary from something common – reared its pretty head with the Nasi Padang that followed. Our first clue was that there was no nasi to begin with; we were presented with what resembled a nicely browned slice of potato dauphinoise.
If that was a surprise, shock followed. Somehow, Chef Inderpal infuses the essential flavours of nasi padang into something that looks nothing like that dish. At the heart of this creation is a plant-based mushroom rendang accompanied by sambal ijo aioli.
I regard this a must-order not just for how the taste and texture are so accurately reproduced, but also for the imagination that drives it.
That imagination extends to the Bak Bak Wings, Chef’s take on Hainanese Chicken Rice. The concept is turned somewhat inside-out, with the rice presented within a ‘pocket’ of a chicken wing.
A few soft, fragrant grains of rice tumbled out of their home as the dish was presented, regaling me with notes of sweet, earthy garlic tempered by the telltale nutty umami of the chicken. Also making an olfactory appearance was Chef’s Signature Hainan Banana Chilli with its rich, zesty essence.
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All that promise was fulfilled when I took a mouthful. Tender rice and the crispy hand-torched chicken skin played well together, and the banana chilli filled the spaces in between with creamy ease.
After a soursop sorbet Palate Cleanser served with hot honey and shaved chocolate– which I thoroughly enjoyed– came the highlight of the meal, the Lamb Briyani.
The succulent Australian lamb rack came glistening atop its bed of coconut biryani while sprawled alongside were a small serving each of eggplant pachidi and burnt cucumber raita. It was a medley of fragrances with Chef Inderpal’s self-roasted and -blended spice mix dominating but the lamb and pickled eggplant adding their own opinions.
Slow-cooked before being finished on the grill, the lamb was mesmerisingly tender. Bits of cranberry lent an inviting tartness to the affair while the nutty crunch of pistachio peppered the mouthfeel with addictive aplomb.
Final thoughts
Meh’r was an interesting experience gastronomically and visually. I still smile recalling how the Nasi Padang tasted so familiar despite looking nothing like the traditional version. The Bak Bak Wings inspire the same wonder for the same reason. You have to try at least one of them at Meh’r.
Chef Inderpal’s vision is to elevate Asian street food, creating experiences of discovery along paths most of us would never imagine. I see it becoming popular with both locals and tourists. The former will see creativity transforming tastes they already know while the latter may perhaps see dishes that look visually familiar but regale them with a taste of Asia.
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