Malaysia
Singapore
Thailand
What are “KL-style” pork noodles, exactly? This Malaysian hawker staple, also known as 猪肉粉 (zhu rou fen), can be found at every other eatery in KL. However, apart from Legacy Pork Noodle, New Ocean 新海 in Toa Payoh Palm Spring Market is one of the few stalls in Singapore that I know specialises in this dish.
KL’s beloved pork noodles come in both dry and soup form, often boasting a luxurious mix of minced meat, pork slices, innards and more, tied together with either a clear broth or a deeply savoury and sweet soy-based gravy. In Singapore, this dish is still pretty under-the-radar, so I was excited to try New Ocean’s rendition!
What I tried at New Ocean 新海
It was love at first sight when I laid my eyes on a picture of their dry, gloppy noodles on Facebook, instantly entranced to make the trip down (I only fall this hard for food, promise). Naturally, I went straight for their Signature Pork Noodles (Dry)(S$6.80) without a second thought.
The noodles were as hypnotic in real life as they were online: a glossy bowl of my new go-to noodle combo — guo tiao mian, or kway teow with yellow noodles.
This sauce was the highlight of my trip down. Thick, umami-packed, and slightly sweet, it clung to every last strand of noodle and delivered a wallop of fragrance with each bite. Texture-wise, the noodles had just the right bite, the sprinkle of spring onions and crispy pork lard adding a layer of richness and crunch.
The pork slices were ultra tender and had such an addictive mouthfeel. My only quip is that there weren’t enough! Albeit puny, the meatballs were decent with a QQ texture. I just wish they were a little bigger for a) an easier grip on my chopsticks and b) a more piquant, meaty punch.
Just to preface, I’m not the biggest fan of offal. I know, I know… how can I be a food writer who doesn’t eat innards? What I am, though, is objective. Both my dining companion and I agreed that the liver tasted a little too metallic, bordering on funky. Not jarring enough to ruin the meal, but definitely pulled me out of the experience.
That said, the small intestines and pig skin fared better. The intestines were surprisingly clean-tasting with a slight chew, while the pig skin had a soft, gelatinous bite that soaked up the soup nicely.
With a broth pack filled to the brim with pork components, you can imagine how rich it was. It remained pleasantly sweet with mellowed umami notes that instantly warmed my stomach upon first sip.
To balance out the richness, I got the Red Grouper Sliced Fish Soup (S$8), New Ocean’s other signature item featured on their signboard. Ordering the larger portion would be an additional S$2, and adding on noodles is another S$0.50.
Unfortunately, this one didn’t quite live up to its title. The soup was light and clean, but tasted closer to water with a hint of fish than a robust broth. I can imagine it being an easy fix on a sick day, but the soup just felt like a filler — something to sip on, not something I’d crave.
The sliced red grouper was reasonably fresh but thinly cut, leaving it almost tasteless and lacking the rich, oceanic depth I was hoping for. On the other hand, the minced pork was surprisingly the most flavourful element in the bowl, tender and well-marinated with a much-needed savoury punch.
The lettuce and seaweed combo added a touch of freshness and texture, which were okay, though nothing impressive. While each ingredient had potential, the dish as a whole lacked the depth and flavour I would’ve expected from a “signature” dish. For the price, it felt a little underwhelming.
Final Thoughts
New Ocean 新海 is a bit of a mixed bag. As much as I really enjoyed the dry noodles, the fish soup was forgettable at best, especially at its price point. I came with high hopes and left feeling a little… catfished.
Still, I can see why Toa Payoh residents would keep this place in their rotation. The pork noodles are a solid pick for something hearty, flavourful, and different from the usual hawker fare, though it wouldn’t be one I’d travel out for.
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