food

Riviera Forlino, One Fullerton: Chef Rémy’s Lobster Bouillabaisse has my heart now & forever more

Last Updated: November 5, 2020

Written by Vera Leng

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Evening light leaks through massive floor-to-ceiling windows at Riviera Forlino this still evening, and it’s perfectly splendid. Nothing quite calms me like the gentle glow of the sun setting quietly while I nibble away at the entrées before me. All that, and the city view of one of Singapore’s busiest districts at night reflected against the river’s lull waters. That’s just one of the best things about One Fullerton.

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Recently rebranded, the renewed Riviera Forlino is often lauded as modern Mediterranean lounge fine dining with a view. The restaurant is helmed by Chef Rémy Carmignani and Executive Pastry Chef Nicolas Vergnole, who have both spent a sizable portion of their careers in Michelin-starred restaurants across the globe.

What I tried

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The Wild-Caught New Zealand Langoustine (S$48++) with tomato jelly, tomato vinaigrette, and young shoots is a lovely start and aptly complements the gorgeous view of the bay. Maybe you’ll even be able to convince yourself that you’re relishing exquisite langoustine by the French Riviera—because the Singapore River can be anything you want it to be as long as you try hard enough.

The intricate meld of its creamy, jelly-like consistency makes the dish simple to savour, and even easier to like. To top it all off, its ornate plating juxtaposes the langoustine in an absolutely dramatic but divine finish.

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Those unfazed by the raciness of lamb would probably enjoy the Hand Made Tortellini (S$38++) which comes stuffed with traditional Moroccan tangia-style lamb shoulder saffron and goat cheese cream. Don’t be fooled by its humble portion though—one bite is already enough to pummel the savoury richness right into you. The gaminess of the lamb is just a tad too much for me, but my dining partner seems to be enjoying himself just fine.

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A charming Boston lobster claw sits atop hand-poured traditional Provençal bisque, and is joined by a garlic parmentier to make up the Lobster Bouillabaisse (S$68++). As someone who basks and thrives in all the raw, unadulterated brininess of seafood, the bisque really did it for me. I don’t know how, but Chef Rémy seems to have found a way to encapsulate all of the lobster’s glory in a succinct, full-bodied broth.

A warm smile spreads across Chef Rémy’s face as he fondly reminisces his grandmother’s lobster bisque that pointedly marks his childhood. It’s a bisque that reels him back to a better, simpler time, and is, in fact, what inspired the dish. I’m a believer that everyone has that one dish that could make even the gloomiest days just a little bit better. For me, it’s my mother’s unfailing claypot mee tai mak.

In a combined effort with local mixology brand GudSht, the restaurant now offers a Plated 4-course Dessert Flight (S$68++) which can be enjoyed altogether or a la carte.

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Riviera Forlino’s Dessert Flight starts with a sweet-savoury Riviera Vacherin (S$24++, a la carte)Ricotta Di Pecora Gelato, Sicilian Pistachio Chantilly, Amalfi Lemon Gel and Meringue—paired with the Amalfi Plunge (S$20++, a la carte), which is a citrusy blend of herbs and nuts that makes you wonder if there’s any trace of alcohol in your drink at all.

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Lovers of the classic Old Fashioned will find delight in the Deeznuts cocktail (S$18++, a la carte), which boasts mellow, nutty hints of dark chocolate and honeycomb.

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It is accompanied by the Caraibe 66% Dark Chocolate Cremeux (S$24++, a la carte), which in itself is already infused with Glenfiddich 15YO Whisky and flanks a simple salted caramel ice cream.

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The Les Figues de Provence (S$24++, a la carte) is met with ambivalent faces, and understandably so. The harsh woody notes of the seasonal Solliès figs from France coupled with Goat Milk & Honey Cloud is an acquired experience, to say the least, but the Unicorn Barf cocktail (S$22++, a la carte) provides prompt deliverance for the course.

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It is exactly what you’d imagine—swirls of edible glitter swimming in a winsome baby blue mix of gin and juniper.

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Contrary to my knee jerk reflex to flee at the slightest hint of tomato, I surprisingly revel in the Wandering Tomate cocktail (S$20++, a la carte)—a savoury-sweet concoction with whiffs of pineapple and fresh basil.

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The dessert to pair is the Orchard Citrus Sphere (S$24++, a la carte), which should be enjoyed in fun, delightful pops. Ruby Grape Fruit Terrine, Vanilla Ganache, Codigo Rosa 1530 Tequila Granité, and Light Hibiscus Gel are also served on the side, making the dish a fantastic palate cleanser overall.

This dessert flight is in solidarity with the SingapoRediscovers campaign to encourage more Singaporeans to support local tourism, hospitality and F&B businesses, as well as a longstanding commitment to #supportlocal, as all of us should.

Vera’s ‘Chef Kiss Award’

An already fantastic dish made all the more captivating by its heart-warming origin story, the Lobster Bouillabaisse (S$68++) clearly takes the cake tonight, tomorrow, and for a long time to come. I award it Vera’s ‘Chef Kiss Award’ because you’re not only tucking into a remarkable seafood dish, you’re also tucked away into a wistful, nostalgic memory. And that’s an experience worth every penny.

Final thoughts

It goes without saying that you can always expect beautiful plating and scrumptious offerings from Chef Rémy and Nicholas, but it’s the stories at Riviera Forlino that stay with you. Because you won’t merely be having lobster or lamb; it’s the pieces of each chefs’ lived experiences and anecdotes that truly help to bring every dish to life.

Expected Damage: S$68++ – S$198++ per pax

Price: $ $ $

Our Rating: 4 / 5

Riviera Forlino

1 Fullerton Road, One Fullerton, #02-06, Singapore 049213

Price
Our Rating 4/5

Riviera Forlino

1 Fullerton Road, One Fullerton, #02-06, Singapore 049213

Telephone: +65 6690 7564
Operating Hours: 12pm - 2.30pm & 6.30pm - 11pm (Mon to Fri), 6.30pm - 11pm (Sat), Closed on Sun
Telephone: +65 6690 7564

Operating Hours: 12pm - 2.30pm & 6.30pm - 11pm (Mon to Fri), 6.30pm - 11pm (Sat), Closed on Sun
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