Malaysia
Singapore
Thailand
I don’t think I truly understood the phrase “third time’s the charm” until I visited Shu Heng Bi Tai Mak. Or rather, tried to.
Few noodle stalls in Singapore specialise in bee tai mak, also known as “mouse tail noodles”. Most, if any, offer it as an alternative to bigger hits like mee pok. Well, not here — the chewy rice noodle takes centre stage at this Kebun Baru Food Centre stall. As a huge proponent of bee tai mak supremacy, I immediately placed it at the top of my to-eat list.
But it stayed there, unchecked, way longer than I liked. My first attempt was thwarted by a 2-month closure for repairs and renovations. The second, the stall was on a personal break.
And finally, the third. I can’t put into words the relief when I saw the stall up and running. I wasn’t even fazed by the queue, which impressively lasted the entire time I was there that fine morning. Worth mentioning: they’re only open for 5 hours a day, their noodles regularly selling out before lunchtime. Talk about elusive!
What I tried at Shu Heng Bi Tai Mak
My first dish of the day was the Johor Bi Tai Mak (S$4), which I later learnt is the stall’s main attraction — and supposedly only one of its kind on this side of the Causeway. I should’ve known, seeing that the third customer after me was told that it’d already sold out. This is me counting my lucky stars, really.
This was unlike any noodle dish I’ve had before, and I mean that in the best way possible. The broth had a viscous, gravy-like consistency, and dotted throughout were all sorts of goodies: minced pork, chopped mushrooms, hae bee, garlic, fried shallots, spring onions and traces of salted fish.
One spoonful in and it was clear as day why this one’s a sell-out. I’d describe it as the perfect cross between a robust pork-based broth and light ikan bilis stock, livened up with a satisfying peppery kick. It was savoury and full-bodied, yet still clean and thoroughly drinkable.
Slicked in the warming broth, the bee tai mak noodles packed immense flavour into each mouthful, their smooth, chewy texture nicely complemented by the tender minced meat and mushrooms. Humble, comforting and so very addictive.
I couldn’t help but feel like I’d struck gold. In my mind the whole time was just how I’d found the perfect remedy for a rainy day or the flu. Sorry, porridge — you’ve just been overthrown.
Guns blazing, I got started on my second bowl: the lengthily named Mushroom Pork Minced Fish Ball Noodles (S$4.50), which I opted to have dry. It’s not as complicated as it sounds — it’s really just fishball bak chor mee, just with bee tai mak in place of the usually-alkaline mee pok. I loved it from first glance.
I must commend Shu Heng Bi Tai Mak’s generosity with its portions — at such an affordable price point, no less. My bowl came piled with oh-so-juicy braised mushrooms, a generous heap of moist, flavourful minced meat, several fishcake slices and 2 plump fishballs that delivered a satisfying snap as I sank my teeth into them.
I gave the noodles a good toss, coating each stubby tendril in a glossy mix of dark sauce, chilli and vinegar. Embellished with a rich brown sheen, the bee tai mak soaked up the tasty sauce perfectly — each bite enriched with savoury depth and the umami-rich kick of the hae bee-laden chilli.
While I’m not usually a fan of vinegar, its sharp tang was mellowed out by the gentle, rice-y bite of the noodles. I wolfed down the whole bowl so quickly, you’d think I had somewhere to be.
Final thoughts
Third time’s the charm, and very charming my meal at Shu Heng Bi Tai Mak was indeed.
The concept of bee tai mak as a stall’s main speciality is pretty novel, but one they’ve certainly nailed. Call me dramatic, but both soup and dry versions blew me away, and I’m fully convinced that more noodle stalls should take a leaf out of their book. But as long as Shu Heng Bi Tai Mak reigns, I’ll learn to become a morning person so I can catch them while they’re open.
Expected damage: S$4 – S$8.80 per pax
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