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Chinatown Complex Food Centre never fails to overwhelm me with the sheer number of food stalls available. No matter how many times I visit, I always seem to stumble upon something new. An Ji was that ‘something new’, spanning 2 stalls and boldly emblazoned with the words ‘Recommended on TV‘. It left me intrigued and it had me standing there, frozen, staring at the spread for a good minute.
After what felt like an eternity browsing through its lineup of about 43 dishes, I finally placed my order — and, in the process of chatting with the stall lady, walked away with a mini history lesson.
It turns out An Ji is anything but new. Even before Chinatown Complex was built, the current 3rd-generation owner’s grandmother was already peddling as a street vendor in the 1960s. Back in the black-and-white TV era, her Cantonese-centric menu was simple — hor fun, crispy egg noodles, and fish head bee hoon. Today, that amount has multiplied fourteenfold.
What to order at An Ji
I know fish head bee hoon is one of their specialities, but as someone who eats it regularly, I’ve honestly had enough of it and will be skipping it for this feature (sorry, not sorry).
I started with the small portion of Beef Crispy Noodle (S$6) — available in S$8, S$12, and S$15 portions. Disposable serving ware aside (I would’ve at least preferred a melamine plate), the dish looked promising, with slices of beef resting on golden crispy noodles and greens. My imagination couldn’t help but see a pile of eggs nestled in a bird’s nest.
Without mixing the sauce, which might have distracted my taste buds, I tried the beef with the crispy noodles on their own. The beef had a slightly smooth texture, suggesting that a little tenderiser might have been used. It was delightfully beefy and not overly soft, which would have otherwise made it taste artificial. The noodles were extra crispy and satisfying to bite into.
It was impressive that the noodles somehow maintained their crunch even after being tossed and coated in sauce. At other establishments, they would’ve turned soggy by now. The sauce was mildly peppery and I didn’t feel the heat until much later. Nonetheless; a great start!
I gave the carbs a rain check and moved on to something light — the Salted Fish & Pork Floss Beancurd (S$10). A huge slab of silken tofu sat in the middle, topped with huge pork clusters, salted fish bits, and pork floss, all doused in a thick, cornstarch-like gravy.
I was smiling to myself that they added ba hu (pork floss), as it was my favourite childhood condiment to jazz up just about anything — porridge, bread… the list goes on. Before I tucked into the dish, my dining partner had helped himself to a piece of salted fish, mistaking it for pork lard because of how golden-brown and irresistible it looked. I nearly died of laughter when his entire face cringed because of the saltiness.
With the help of a spoon for support, I took a chunk of beancurd, crowned it with a cube of salted fish, some pork floss, and the viscous gravy beneath, before wolfing everything down in one bite. It was comforting, with different textures coming into play as the tofu acted like a blank canvas, balancing the savouriness of the ba hu and the saltiness of the fish.
The chunks of pork were soft and tasted like a luxurious meat cake, devoid of any unpleasant aromas. That said, though the texture was similar to the beef, but its extreme smoothness dulled the distinct mouthfeel you’d expect from meat.
As I dived in deeper, I discovered hidden pieces of Chinese lettuce hidden beneath the beancurd. They were soft but maintained a slight crisp, and paired very well with the savoury gravy.
Next on the agenda was the Fish Slice Hor Fun (S$6 for small). The style and presentation mirrored the Beef Crispy Noodle exactly, just with beef replaced by fish and crispy noodles by hor fun.
The main difference between this dish and the earlier crispy noodles was how aromatic and smoky the flat rice sheets were — they were wok-kissed! The larger surface area of the hor fun trapped more gravy in between its folds, resulting in a more savoury, peppery taste. As for the fish, it was firm and fresh.
We also ordered the Nai Bai (S$6) to cut down the richness of the 2 mains. The green veggies were lightly-sautéed with minced garlic and were lightly coated in a mild savoury sauce.
Who An Ji is best for
This stall is great for older folks who love the taste of traditional Cantonese dishes. The steamed fish options are also ideal for those who enjoy light, savoury flavours. If you’re in a big group and crave for zi char, this stall also has other selections like Cereal Prawn (S$12) and Shrimp Sauce Chicken (S$10).
How to get there?
An Ji is located at Chinatown Complex Food Centre. The nearest MRT stations are Chinatown (NE4/DT19) and Maxwell (TE18). You can also take a bus and alight at Maxwell Stn Exit 2 or New Bridge Ctr.
Do we recommend An Ji?
Yes. If I’m in the area and am looking for zi char, I’ll definitely order all the dishes that I tried again. After 6 decades of operations, I’m curious to see what makes their fish soup a local mainstay, and will leave that for my next visit. I also wish that they’ll replace their paper plates with actual serving ware.
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