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One of the things I adore most about hawker food is the sheer variety you can stumble upon. Like how you’d be able to find old-school treats, local classics and quirky new creations all under one roof. And the way a humble stall can take a restaurant speciality and give it its own spin — sometimes even better.
Menya Horikawa at Woodleigh Village Hawker Centre falls neatly into that camp, with its unique focus on mazesoba. As a huge fan of this slurp-worthy noodle dish from the Land of the Rising Sun, I knew I had to check them out.
I know… Japanese cuisine is a dime a dozen in our kopitiams these days, and once-atas dishes like ramen and donburis are no longer the hawker rarities they used to be.
Mazesoba surely still is, though. These saucy, meat-topped noodles — known more simply as Japanese dry ramen or, more colloquially, Japanese bak chor mee — take centre stage at Menya Horikawa.
At its helm is Mr Rick Tan, who’s honed his craft under a Japanese restaurant chef and insists on using only Japanese ingredients in his mazesoba, according to an interview with The Straits Times. So while the stall is just a few months old, you can expect it’s already in capable hands.
What I tried at Menya Horikawa
We got the ball rolling with Menya Horikawa’s signature Spicy Mazesoba (S$7.90/S$8.90), opting for the Large portion. This was mazesoba done by the book: noodles tucked snugly beneath a colourful blanket of ingredients.
The crowning yolk sat plump and wobbly, and we couldn’t resist breaking it open to unleash its golden, glossy stream. Around it lay a garden of spring onions, a scattering of nori squares and a respectable mound of minced meat, all dusted with a confident shake of ichimi (Japanese chilli powder).
A good toss and the bowl came alive. The thick, chewy noodles had a lip-smackingly satisfying bounce and bite, each strand coated in a luscious mix of creamy yolk and savoury sauce laced with hints of sesame oil. The ichimi was the kicker, packing a racy spice that punched it all up.
Complementing them were the meaty clumps of minced pork, while the spring onions cut through with a sharp, aromatic crunch. My only real gripe was with the nori — its roasted, briny contrast was lovely where it landed, but there just wasn’t quite enough to go around. Regardless, this was a bowl of mazesoba that undoubtedly punched its weight.
Uma Haus: Abura dry ramen from $3.90 & tiger prawn tendon at Chinatown hawker stall
We then moved on to a Regular bowl of Spicy Curry Seafood Mazesoba (S$9.90/S$10.90), dressed with a scattering of crystal prawns and 3 generous fingers of snow crab meat, alongside our old friends minced meat, egg and spring onions.
The prawns were admittedly on the smaller side, lending only a faint snap without much depth. An understandable compromise — I figure fresh prawns would tip this bowl into boujee territory — but here, they felt more like fillers than stars of the show.
The snow crab sticks, on the other hand, made a stronger impression. Soft and smooth, they unravelled in layers with a gentle sweetness that gave the bowl a touch of delicacy.
The noodles themselves were reliable as ever, shining through with their moreish firm bite. This time, they took on a deeper brown sheen, coated not only with the yolk and sauce but also a smidge of thick curry paste. What ensued was a punchy, aromatic profile endowed with bold curry notes and lively waves of ichimi heat on top. This was spice upon spice, but nothing too crazy for the average spice enjoyer.
If anything, the portion felt a touch modest for S$9.90, and the seafood didn’t quite live up to the billing. Still, the noodles themselves held a spotlight and I must give props to the solid workmanship behind the bowl’s careful balance of flavours.
For good measure, I followed the stall’s advice and added a pinch of garlic and a splash of vinegar to some noodles — as suggested on their “How to Enjoy” signboard.
The garlic lent a robust punch while the vinegar cut through with a tangy brightness. The combo made for an interesting layer of contrast, though I’d say it’s not a strict must unless you’re after that extra kick, as the noodles very much hold their own.
We rounded off the meal with some Boiled Dumplings with Ponzu Sauce (S$2.90), our sole side dish as the Cold Tofu (S$2.90) was sadly sold out during our visit. These dumplings were the familiar kind: simple chive-studded minced meat wrapped in dumpling skins, set in a bath of ponzu. While nothing groundbreaking, they paired well with the tangy sauce and made for a light, refreshing nibble alongside the noodles.
Final thoughts
So, where does that leave Menya Horikawa? For me, in a pretty solid spot. There were some hits and misses, and the prices do edge towards the steeper side for hawker fare — but I’d still happily fork out for those noodles, which they’ve nailed to a tee.
Having had my fair share of mazesoba from better established names, I can say with confidence that Menya Horikawa holds up against those bigger players. Their bowls are slurp-worthy, satisfying and exactly what I’d want when the craving strikes. I know I’ll be back for another fix.
Expected damage: S$6.90 – S$10.90 per pax
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