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Nothing beats a Jet2 holiday… except for affordable and yummy kopitiam food! As someone who finds comfort in the familiar flavours of local kopitiam fare, however, I’ll admit that KL’s current scene has been underwhelming. Prices keep climbing, yet the food often doesn’t live up to them. With my expectations in check, I set out in search of a better option — and that’s when I discovered Capitol Cafe in Bukit Bintang.
I hadn’t heard of it before, and after a 6-minute walk from the Bukit Bintang MRT station, I could see why. The sidewalks were lined with parked cars, turning the path into a tight squeeze. I might or might not have had to suck in my stomach just to get through (not everyone can be skinny legends). If you’re unfamiliar with the area, you might miss the place entirely.
Still, the cafe had built up quite a bit of buzz, so my hopes were cautiously high. I had no plans to order nasi lemak that day, but the claim printed right on the menu cover caught me off guard. “The best nasi lemak in Malaysia.” Not just KL. The whole country. A claim like that deserved to be tested.
What I tried at Capitol Cafe
While my eyes instinctively locked onto the nasi lemak section, I decided to ease into the meal with their Roti Bakar Set (RM11.90). True to tradition, the toasted bread came with generous slathers of pandan kaya and cold cubes of butter nestled in between. It was served with a side of soft-boiled eggs and a hot drink of our choice — we went with the classic kopi.
At first glance, we were convinced they’d brought us kopi O. It looked alarmingly pitch black. But once stirred, the milk slowly rose to the surface. Still strong in colour, it had a satisfyingly robust flavour. Coffee lovers might want to ask for a less sweet version — a small tip from me to you.
As for the eggs, we mixed in a dash of soy sauce and white pepper before dipping in the toast. From that very first bite, my dining companion and I immediately danced in joy (if you count nodding vigorously to each other with our mouths full as “dancing”).
The toast was buttery and perfectly crisp on the outside, yet still soft inside. The silky butter added a touch of saltiness, and the kaya was just sweet enough without being overwhelming. Capitol Cafe clearly knows their way around a good kaya toast!
Finally, the Signature Nasi Lemak (RM18.90), came to our plate piping hot. At first glance, it gave off an Indonesian vibe — not surprising, considering Capitol Cafe also offers Balinese Chicken Rice and Nasi Bebek. What made me think that? Let me explain.
The rice grains were longer than usual, almost like basmati but a tad shorter. They likely weren’t soaked too long, but that didn’t take away from the texture. It leaned slightly oily and glossy, much like Hainanese Chicken Rice in both look and its ginger-forward flavour — though the santan brought it back into nasi lemak territory. My companion thought it was just right, but I personally would’ve preferred it a touch more moist.
The sambal had a coarse texture reminiscent of sambal penyet, filled with seeds and packing a punch. On its own, it tasted quite sour, but when paired with the rice, the sweetness from the onions balanced it beautifully. Be warned though — it’s spicy! Perfect for someone like me, but my friend was definitely sweating through it. I almost felt bad.
Now, the chicken. This was the clincher for the Indonesian-inspired theory. The crispy skin and spice profile leaned more towards ayam penyet than your usual Malaysian ayam goreng berempah. The skin crackled with every bite, and the seasoning was spot-on. That said, I would’ve liked the meat to be juicier. If you love ayam penyet, this is right up your alley. But if you’re a nasi lemak purist, you might find it a little offbeat.
To wrap up the meal, we couldn’t resist the Penang-style Char Kuey Teow (RM18.90). Much like the nasi lemak, the portion was generous — and so were the ingredients.
As I mixed the smoking heap of char kway teow, I noted that the cook could’ve stirred it more evenly; some of the spice hadn’t fully coated the noodles. That said, it wasn’t obvious in terms of taste. The wok hei was there, though it could’ve been stronger, and the dish needed a bit more salt overall. If you’re someone who prefers milder flavours though, this might suit your palate just fine.
The prawns were plump, though slightly overcooked. Chicken slices were on the light side, but there was no shortage of fishcakes and eggs. It came with a side of chopped bird’s eye chilli in a vinegary soy sauce — a much needed kick that really tied it all together.
Final thoughts
While the nasi lemak was enjoyable, it didn’t quite have that irresistible quality that keeps you reaching for bite after bite. I found myself slowing down halfway through, and eventually, leaving the plate unfinished. The char kuey teow, while decent in portion, lacked depth and was under-seasoned. Nothing memorable, unfortunately.
The real star of the show? Without question, the kaya toast. Possibly one of the best I’ve had in KL! I can see why Capitol Cafe has its fans. It’s charming in its own right. But would I go out of my way to return? Probably not.
And as for that bold claim — “the best nasi lemak in Malaysia”? Well, if you’ve made it this far, I think you already know my verdict.
Expected damage: RM4.50 – RM18.90 per pax
