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In recent years, I have gone from being a die-hard chicken rice fan to becoming a duck rice fan instead. Hence, when I was assigned this showdown, I was more than glad to do it.
That is how I found myself at Chinatown Complex, which features 2 popular duck rice stalls — Jin Ji Teochew Braised Duck & Kway Chap and Run Ji Cooked Food.
What is duck rice?
The classic plate of duck rice has braised duck and white rice, and is usually served with side dishes such as beancurd, cucumber, peanuts, or boiled eggs. The duck is often cooked in a spice-infused broth, along with soy sauce, and served atop rice with soy sauce drizzled over the dish.
What makes a good duck rice?
The duck should be marinated long enough to soak up the flavour from the gravy, and there should be enough gravy drizzled on the rice, coating it well. Moreover, the duck should be tender and savoury, with a hint of spice from the braising liquid.
Why these contenders?
Given that these 2 stalls are often patronised by diners at Chinatown Complex, and that they are situated so close together, I was eager to find out which stall’s duck rice tasted the best, and what differentiates them.
Run Ji Cooked Food
Upon stepping into this hawker centre, I was instantly face-to-face with Run Ji Cooked Food. Given that I was already starving after my hour-long commute, I opted to try Run Ji Cooked Food’s duck rice first.
I ordered their Duck Rice (S$4.50), and it came loaded with a large portion of duck over steaming white rice, and a good number of cucumber slices as the garnish. While I’m typically used to having duck rice with soy-sauce flavoured rice, I was quite happy to find that there was a hearty amount of gravy drizzled over the rice when I lifted the duck meat.
The gravy nicely coated the rice grains and had an umami taste, lighter than what I am used to. Despite its lighter touch, I found that the gravy worked both quietly and brilliantly, lifting the rice grains with a subtle, savoury depth that lingered just enough for me to be impressed. I have my reservations when it comes to plain, white rice, but I found that even without the gravy, the white rice was flavourful enough to stand on its own.
Now comes the supposed star of the show — the duck itself. The duck was marinated decently, and there was a good amount of fat on it, which I liked. Each piece was juicy and had me wanting more. However, my only qualm with this was that certain pieces seemed much more flavourful than the rest, as my initial bites did not impress me much, but my later ones did.
Being a humble stall selling only Duck Meat (S$12), Duck Porridge (S$4.50) and the aforementioned, duck rice, Run Ji Cooked Rice does quite a good job with its focus on delivering quality duck, though I do wish it were slightly more consistent.
Kun Ji: Duck rice that’s more than 40 years old ain’t no quack!
Jin Ji Teochew Braised Duck & Kway Chap
I took a longer time deciphering the menu over at Jin Ji Teochew Braised Duck & Kway Chap, given that they had more options, such as the Bento Combo Jumbo Set (S$10) and the Bento Kway Chap Set (S$7). Luckily, the decision was already made for me, given the title of this article, and I ordered their duck rice.
Upon ordering, the auntie asked if I wanted the S$4 or S$5 version, and I opted for the cheaper one. I assume the reason for the difference in price would be the amount of duck meat you get.
Jin Ji Teochew Braised Duck & Kway Chap does their rice differently from Run Ji Cooked Food, as they douse their rice in soy sauce, hence giving it a darker colour. My duck rice came alongside a bowl of soup, which appeared clear at first glance, but when I had a spoonful of it, it had a thick, herbal-like taste.
I felt that the portion of rice for this plate of duck rice was significantly larger. Here, the rice was cloaked in a deep, soy-stained sheen, with each grain thoroughly coated and delivering a bold punch, where I felt that the soy sauce did stand out for its unmistakable intensity.
One key difference between the 2 stalls is that Jin Ji Teochew’s duck has bones, while Run Ji’s is boneless. The pieces were large, and there was a noticeable amount of gravy that was lathered on the duck, though the presence of bones means that you’ll have to work a little harder for each bite. While the portion is undeniably generous, the overall experience felt heartier rather than remarkable, given that the duck was not as tender as the one at Run Ji.
Verdict
| Stall | Overview | Verdict |
|---|---|---|
| Run Ji Cooked Food | Boneless duck with lighter gravy and tender meat | Best overall for juicy boneless duck with subtly savoury gravy coating white rice |
| Jin Ji Teochew Braised Duck & Kway Chap | Hearty portions with bold soy-flavoured rice | Best value for larger portions with soy-doused rice, herbal soup, and duck served with bones |
While both plates held their own with tender and well-braised duck, Run Ji Cooked Food edged out Jin Ji Teochew Braised Duck & Kway Chap with a deeper flavour and a more satisfying balance that lingered just a little longer on my palate.
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