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Note: This stall has shifted to 7 Maxwell Road, Amoy Street Food Centre, #02-92, Singapore 069111
As a product of an interracial marriage, I’ve been exposed to a plethora of dishes from various cuisines growing up. However, what struck me the most was realising Eurasian cuisine is still pretty under the radar here in Singapore. Hence, when I heard of Doris’s Devilishly Delicious Curry (#tripleDC), I knew it’d be the right place to introduce you to one of my favourite Eurasian dishes, Devil’s Curry (or Curry Debal in Kristang).
Located at City Gate, the obscure outlet is known as Singapore’s first Devil’s Curry flagship restaurant, and is owned by two buddies, Justin and SY. For the unbeknownst, Eurasian cuisine consists of an amalgamation of European and Asian flavours; namely from the Portuguese, Dutch, Malay, Indian, and Chinese.
Historically, the traditional dish of the Kristang community originated from sailors during the 1500s— where they’d cook leftover meat in a spice mix to enable its consumption a little longer. Although Devil’s Curry was used to extend the “lifespan” of post-Christmas leftovers, it eventually became a staple in Eurasian households, and is now readily available at any time at #tripleDC.
What I tried
The Devil’s Curry (S$10 for Small, S$35 for Large) at #tripleDC comes in two spice levels, mild or spicy. Despite its scary name, the spicy curry is flavoured with other spices like candlenuts and galangal. Over here, it’s simmered in a homemade rempah for over four hours.
The delightfully luscious Devil’s Curry came in a beautiful red hue, with its silky butteriness and aromatic nuances of chillies and other spices. The familiar scent of home instantly filled the quaint space.
Traditionally, the Devil’s Curry is known to be very spicy however, #tripleDC toned down its spiciness for everyone, from young to old, to savour the labour-intensive curry as opposed to a tongue-numbing spoonful. The curry retained a mild spiciness that crept up the back of my throat after a while. To quote Justin, chef of #tripleDC, “enjoying food shouldn’t come with any side effects”.
As Devil’s Curry is usually cooked with a medley of leftover meat from Christmas, any kind of meat can be used. Over here, premium cuts of pork and chicken cocktail sausages are added to create a gratifyingly moreish dish that’ll force you to re-explore your understanding of curries.
Bonus feature: each aromatic spoonful of smoked pork will grow onto you. Honestly, I can sit here and type about how delicious #tripleDC’s Devil’s Curry is, but heading down and tasting it for yourself will surpass any glowing review.
Another speciality at #tripleDC is the Prawn Bostador (S$32 for 500g). First glance, the green chilli reminded me of sambal ijo. Before digging in, Justin shared that bostador means ‘slap’ in Kristang— a creole Portuguese language— and this dish was intended to ‘slap you out of the park’ with its fiery heat! Like the Devil’s Curry, the spice level for this dish has been altered so diners can experience the robust flavours of the dish.
Slapped I was, with the freshness and thickness of the prawns. Normally, I avoid prawns for the fear of triggering my (mild) allergies but I decided to throw caution to the wind with this one. Allergies, schmellergies.
The sambal had a Malay-influenced taste to it which wasn’t surprising, considering the similar spices used in both cuisines, and it’s safe to say that the fresh prawns elevated the simple yet complex dish.
Lastly, I also had the Grago Cutlets (S$9 for three pieces). Grago or Udang Geragau translates to Acetes— a genus of small shrimp that resembles krill.
Not-so-fun fact: grago is also a derogatory term for the Malacca-Portuguese community as it referred to poor Portuguese-Eurasians who made their living from fishing udang geragau.
Unlike the Malay bergedil or Indian fish cutlets, grago cutlets don’t use potatoes and are painstakingly prepared from scratch— which explains the inconsistent shapes. The cutlets were crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, akin to a vadai. It wasn’t too heavy and was the perfect side dish for two heavily-spiced mains.
ChopeDeals: Save 33% with Signature Devilishly Curry Set for 2 at Doris’s Devilishly Delicious Curry
Final thoughts
I visited Doris’s Devilishly Delicious Curry to get my fix of ‘devilishly delicious curry’, and wasn’t disappointed. Justin perfectly executed every dish and brought justice to his grandmother’s stellar recipe. Rich in culture, Eurasian cuisine is often overlooked or forgotten, and it’s up to places like #tripleDC to preserve it.
A quick chat with Justin and SY also revealed that the name Doris’s Devilishly Delicious Curry was intended to be a tongue twister of sorts. Personally, the food here reminds me a lot of what I used to have during Christmas and other festive occasions at the homes of my relatives. I’m just glad there’s one more place I can visit any time to get my Devil’s Curry fix. Besides, that cute little devil, sure warrants multiple visits!
Expected damage: S$10 – S$51 per pax
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