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To put it bluntly, some F&B outlets in Singapore struggle to stay afloat — they come and go like the fragrance of an underwhelming eau de toilette. A few even raise the white flag within months. Be it sky-high rent, fading passion, or tight competition, one thing’s certain — the F&B game is tough (mad respect for all of you)!
And yet, stalwarts like Maxwell Fuzhou Oyster Cake at Maxwell Food Centre continue to thrive, proudly dishing out their signature oyster meat puffs even after 63 glorious years.
It all began in 1964 at Tras street, when the late Mdm Pang Siew Ting (aged 99) started selling those round, scrumptious morsels to earn an income. Back then, to reduce the hassle of shucking oysters, large clams were used in its place. The business operated in its original location for about 23 years before transitioning to its current spot, where it has remained for over 4 decades.
The stall is currently run by 69-year-old Mrs Hoon Poh Hwa, her husband, and 43-year-old son, Mohan Deitrich (3rd-gen), who had left the corporate world over a year ago to help his mum and stepdad full-time.
Young Mrs Hoon wasn’t like her studious siblings. She was bad at mathematics and didn’t complete school. Although she started helping her mother at the stall during primary school, she only became a full-time hawker at age 26, leaving her retail job to dedicate herself to the family business.
“I spent most of my youth at the stall. During my kindergarten days, I used to sleep on a tilam (mattress) behind while my mum made the oyster cakes. When I was in NS, instead of idling, I helped mum out from 12pm to 4pm where I gradually honed my skills.” Mohan shared.
“Also, where can you find a job that you can work alongside your family?” He added enthusiastically.
Because Mohan’s father is Indian, the difference in skin colour has led some customers to believe that he is an assistant who hails from Indonesia or India. He even recalled meeting a Mauritian tourist who was so struck by the similarity that they assumed he was from the same country.
“Instead of me, some old aunties would rather ask my mum to prepare the oyster cakes” — whatttttt? It’s surprising that racial prejudice continues to persist in our modern world.
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Unlike other modern brands that challenge tradition and come up with different flavours, the stall specialises in just one dish, the Oyster Cake (S$2.50). For the past 5 to 6 years, they have maintained this pricing. Some customers have special requests every now and then, and they’re always happy to say yes.
Every weekday morning, Mrs. Hoon arrives at the stall at 7.30am to freshly grind the rice flour by hand, a crucial step she completes before operations officially begin at 9am. This batter is the cake’s foundation. A sprinkling of kin chye (Chinese celery), minced pork, 2 oysters, and a small shrimp are then added before it’s covered and a few peanuts are crowned on top.
“Since the majority of our customers are old folks, we don’t want them to get food poisoning. Thus, the oyster cakes are fried till they are slightly more brown, so that the insides are cooked through. Some people might find that the colour might be a little too dark, but that’s the way we have been doing it since day one.”
I’ll admit, the hue of the exterior had me second-guessing if the centre was going to be dry. But one bite proved otherwise — the thin, fluffy crust gave way to juicy, meaty chunks that formed the hearty soul of the cake.
Subsequent bites revealed deeper nuances of umami and creaminess emanating from the oysters. There were also mellow peppery flavours from the kin chye, an extra oomph I didn’t know it needed. The seasoning was spot-on, achieving a perfect balance that didn’t require any extra condiments to enhance the overall flavour.
Final thoughts
So, with Mohan joining the ranks of his mum and stepdad, what are the future steps for Maxwell Fuzhou Oyster Cake?
He replied that he’s focusing on creating an online delivery website targeted specifically at offices in the CBD, recognising that many employees prefer not to travel during their short lunch breaks. Looking forward, his goal is to participate in food expos to boost brand recognition and seek a partner in Japan to introduce and sell his oyster cakes on the street.
If you’re looking for a taste of heritage, swing by Maxwell Fuzhou Oyster Cake and say hi to the lovely trio.
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