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Fishball noodles, in my opinion, is a dish you can hardly ever go wrong with. But how do you choose where to get your fix when a food centre has two (sometimes more) stalls? Okay, it’s never that deep, but Mei Ling Food Centre’s resident duo of fishball noodle stalls presents an interesting toss-up.
In early 2024, I wrote (admittedly a tad late) about how Hup Kee Teochew Fishball Noodles (#02-38) had been bestowed with Michelin recognition in mid-2023. It was during my research for the article that I’d learnt about Xin Lu Teochew Fishball Noodles (#02-05) — the other stall that missed out on that honour.
Both stalls share a speciality, and even trace their roots back to the defunct Margaret Drive Food Centre. But what had the cogs in my brain turning excitedly was how Xin Lu’s name seemed to ring louder, with media features and online buzz aplenty despite the “missing” accolade.
Taste is subjective; I’m sure we’re all familiar with that. Both stalls have had their fair share of devotees through it all, too. Deciding once and for all which stall edges out the other on a good ol’ bowl of fishball noodles, though… that’s a question only a showdown can answer.
Price & Portion
A quick sweep of the stalls’ reviews and I deduced that the way to go for both was the same: dry mee pok, fishballs on the side. Way to make things convenient for me!
My Normal bowl of Dry Noodles at Xin Lu was priced at S$4.50, featuring a generous portion of richly coloured mee pok, accompanied by five fishballs bobbing about in a bath of clear soup.
For the record, you can upsize your order — S$5.40 gets you more noodles *or* two extra fishballs, while S$6.30 covers both (and two more fishballs) if you’re feeling extra ravenous.
I couldn’t replicate the exact order at Hup Kee, since they’d, for some reason, blocked out the prices for their Teochew Fishball Mee. I made do with the next best option: Teochew Fishball Meatball Mee (S$4.50/S$5.50/S$6.50), once again going for the S$4.50 portion.
The ensemble was largely similar, except this one came with just two fishballs — though accompanied by fishcakes, a singular meatball and herh kiao (fish dumpling). The noodle portion was very slightly smaller too, and I’d think only the sharpest sleuths would notice enough to fuss over it.
Noodles
There isn’t usually much to say about mee pok beyond how it should be: springy, firm and al dente — and Xin Lu’s was indeed done very right. Its savoury sauce mix shone through, with a piquant chilli kick that was surprisingly punchy for its unassuming appearance.
What really sealed the deal, though, was the addition of lard oil. This secret weapon wrapped every ribbon of mee pok in an irresistibly moreish sheen, begging for bite after indulgent bite. A scattering of crispy lard nuggets were just the cherry on top, bursting in my mouth with smoky, buttery glory.
Over at Hup Kee, the noodles were a little thinner and held a slightly softer texture, but still retained a pleasant spring. They didn’t skimp on the chilli either (I mean, take a look at that striking red splotch), and true enough, it packed a sharp needly heat that was lifted by a gentle touch of tangy vinegar.
While I did think this bowl could’ve used a bit more oomph — a drizzle of lard oil, perhaps — I’d rule it a clean, classic rendition that’d fit the bill for anyone who loves their fishball noodles old-school.
Ingredients & Soup
Perfectly smooth and round, Xin Lu’s fishballs are real lookers for ones shaped in-house. They were bouncy and supple, yielding under my teeth with a light resistance that whispered “I’m fresh”. Crafted with a mix of yellowtail fish and wolf herring, their flavour profile was savoury and faultless, though nothing particularly revelatory.
The soup, meanwhile, played its supporting role well: a clear, lightly seasoned broth pleasant enough to sip between bites.
Hup Kee’s rendition didn’t stray far from that formula. Its fishballs matched Xin Lu’s in both bounce and flavour, and the soup was similarly serviceable and comforting.
I try not to digress from the topic of *fishball* noodles, but I must sing praises of that hunky meatball. Studded with tiny flecks of chilli and bits of mushroom, this dense morsel brought a deeper, more layered savouriness than anything else in the bowl. The herh kiao was another reliable player — chewy dumpling skin giving way to a modest meat filling.
The fishcake slices were, however, less exciting. Thinly cut and rather run-of-the-mill, they had a faintly processed edge that seeped into the soup, dulling its savoury clarity by a hair. Nonetheless, I appreciated the sheer variety in the bowl, and just wish there’d been more than one meatball!
The Verdict
After slurping my way through both bowls, I’ve decided that Xin Lu Teochew Fishball Noodles clinches the win for me. Between its punchier chilli mix, the sheer indulgence of lard oil and noodles cooked to a perfect springy bite, it just had that extra spark that kept me reaching for more.
That said, both stalls stood on even ground when it came to their fishballs — supple, bouncy and fresh. The real difference lay in the details: Xin Lu leaned into indulgence, while Hup Kee kept things clean and old-school.
It’s exactly as I said at the beginning: you can never really go wrong with fishball noodles. But if you’re after a bowl that takes the familiar and gives it a little more flair, Xin Lu is definitely the one to beat.
Expected damage: S$4.50 – S$6.50 per pax
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