“A Work of Art”
Executive Chef Silvio Morelli, the new owner of Trattoria Gallo D’Oro, is a pedant on Italian authenticity. According to the well-traveled fine dining chef, his trattoria is “not a restaurant, it’s a salon”, and considering he delivers a most passionate history lesson of his Italian travels every time you are served, that much might be true.
If you catch yourself wondering where all the oil paintings lined on the coral walls come from, just ask around and an animated Chef-owner Silvio will proudly claim the art as his own. After all, there is apparently a greater purpose as to why immensely overlooking every table that has a rug underfoot is a framed city impression or traveler’s abstraction—the diner is supposed to undergo an educational journey of the senses.
Underneath the soft chandeliers, we sat next to a sketch of the Altare della Patria in Rome awaiting the start of this 3-course journey.
Mozzarella Di Bufala Di Aversa, Pomodorini Pachini Della Sicilia ($32++). For antipasti, we faced a round mound of buffalo mozzarella Burratini cheese from Bari, imported from the South coastal region of Italy, embattled with fresh slices of honeydew and somewhat cream-infused Sicilian cherry tomatoes. The luscious cheese that has a potent undertone of whipped cream is made with orange balsamic vinegar and will surprise with its soft denseness.
Pappardelle Al Porcini E Parmigiano Con Crema ($36++). A soft, springy pappardelle topped with black pepper and porcini mushrooms is drenched in a light cream imbued with Tuscany white truffle, Parmigiano, and balsamic vinegar to spur an addiction of this delicious homemade pasta.
The Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese was used in adequate quantities, ensuring the pasta doesn’t get overly heavy in taste, while the flat softness of the pasta drenched up adequate amounts of cream sauce for an amazing experience.
Linguine Al Granchio ($34++). The fishiness from the mussels and crab meat melds wondrously with the tomato base in this best-selling dish of linguine served with imported, firmer Boston lobster. People who fancy the oceanic flavour will especially enjoy the tinge of sourness from the tomato-crab purée and a heavier base as compared to the pappardelle.
Porchetta Alla Pistoiese ($32++). Instead of being rolled in a coil and sliced thinly, the porchetta roasted pork belly from Trattoria Gallo D’Oro is thickly cubed with a dash of herbs that is also sprinkled on the crunchy roasted potatoes and tomatoes. Not only is there a healthy distribution of fat, succulent meat, and cartilage, but the savoury skin is also toasted to an immaculate crisp. Quite a strong pork flavour which is desirable, but I would have preferred a bit more soft fats distributed around.
Tiramisu Amaretto Di Sarono ($13++). If you’re prepared to finish one of the larger tiramisu single portions I’ve seen, getting Chef Silvio’s version is a no-brainer. Baked as individual bowls to best contain the flavours and prevent dryness from the blend of mascarpone, coffee, and Amaretto di Sarono liquor, there is a distinct egg presence in a still moist and creamy batter beneath the chocolate crust that shoulders a lady finger biscuit resting on a scoop of cream.
Evidently, there is no getting enough of executive Chef-owner Silvio’s influence when you dine at Trattoria Gallo D’Oro, where a litany of culinary accolades precede the chef portrait. In younger times, it is told that he trained at multiple Michelin-starred restaurants before rising to Executive Chef at other renowned Italian restaurants in Singapore like Da Paolo Group and Gaia Ristorante and Bar. It thus seem about time Chef Silvio undertook a solo venture by taking over Trattoria Gallo D’Oro.
For a sedentary escape to sample some bona fide Italian cuisine and hear of their origins, methinks this Italian ristorante charges reasonably for his vast experience. However, do note that his culinary skill is an art form that cannot be rushed; if you lack patience, head to Pasta Mania instead.
Expected damage: $50 – $70 per pax