Malaysia
Singapore
Thailand
I remember exploring Shihlin Night Market in Taipei more than a decade ago, during my first few trips to Taiwan. I had chanced upon a small eatery at the back that served Western-style sizzling hotplate steaks with spaghetti. So when I heard about Kiang Kiang Taiwan Teppanyaki serving something similar, I knew I had to relive that experience all over again.
The stall, situated at 325 Woodlands Street 32, is the brainchild of 38-year-old Duncan Hsu, an ex-hotel chef from Taipei, and his 31-year-old Singaporean wife, Cherry Tan, a former Singapore Airlines cabin crew member.
Curious about why they chose Woodlands as their location, Cherry cheerfully replied, “We live just a 10-minute drive away… and also because the rent here will not kill us. Haha!”
Duncan (pictured second from left) had spent 20 years working in various Taipei hotels, including the Evergreen Laurel. Due to the hectic workload at the time, the couple hired an additional assistant. At 2pm, when the stall takes a 3-hour break, extra help arrives to prepare for dinner service.
I was impressed as the 3 of them worked like a well-disciplined kitchen brigade, efficiently heating up hot plates, grilling meats and preparing side accompaniments.
While witnessing the live action, I also saw Duncan sternly shouting commands at his assistant and wife, much like watching a version of Hell’s Kitchen in Woodlands happening right in front of my eyes.
“I am very particular about the doneness of my meat, that’s why everything has to be timed perfectly. I have to be strict to maintain the quality and ensure maximum customer satisfaction.” Duncan added — head chef material, indeed!
What I tried at Kiang Kiang Taiwan Teppanyaki
Worried that the beef would be overcooked, we kicked things off with the priciest dish, the Australian Ribeye Steak (S$13.50).
With our choice of teppanyaki pasta, sweet corn, and Cherry’s recommended black pepper sauce cascading over the slab of steak, we were ready to tuck in.
Apart from being delightfully tender, the ribeye was juicy and tasted resonantly beefy. Despite staying on the hot griddle for a while as we snapped numerous photos and videos, the beef maintained a medium-to-medium-well doneness — two thumbs up!
That being said, there were parts of the steak that had connective tissues requiring more effort to chew. Regarding the spiciness of the black pepper, we had mixed reactions. While my dining partner thought that it could use more kick, I found it fine but a little too sweet.
One thing that stood out was the superbly al dente strands of spaghetti, which absorbed the pepperiness of the black pepper. When paired with the beef and fried egg, it was perfection in a mouthful.
We then shifted our attention to the Pork Collar Chop (S$9.50). Thin slices of pork chop were slathered with mushroom gravy, topped with basil leaves, and served over a bed of pasta and teppanyaki bean sprouts; with a sunny-side up completing the ensemble.
Perhaps I had envisioned Thai basil pork rice before tasting the meat, but it turned out to be just pork chop served with mushroom sauce. It was only when I had paired a piece of basil with the combination, that the slightly minty notes revealed themselves.
While eating, the chef in me thought: “If they had boiled and simmered chopped up basil leaves into the sauce specifically for this dish, or if they had marinated the pork overnight with a basil puree, would the basil flavour be enhanced? But would it also mean additional workload?”
Nonetheless, I shared my feedback with Cherry. Whether they want to heed it is, of course, entirely up to them. That being said, the doneness of the pork deserves praise. It was succulent and seasoned flawlessly.
I also thoroughly enjoyed savouring the harmony between the creamy egg and the meat together— what a sublime treat!
Though the mushroom sauce had slices of fresh mushrooms, it leaned more towards a garlicky flavour than earthy. In all honesty, I would have preferred it the other way around. Perhaps this is the Taiwanese way.
We ended our meal with something light, the Halibut (S$13.50). We paired the fish with short grain rice, teppanyaki bean sprouts and a mixed sauce (half mushroom, half black pepper). Yes, for the fickle-minded individuals, this gravy is perfect for you.
I’ve always regarded halibut as a cheaper alternative to cod — both varieties have that remarkable flaky texture. The buttery flesh melted in my mouth but still had a firm mouthfeel that puts all dory fish to shame (no offence).
Another highlight was the teppanyaki bean sprouts. The chefs have mastered an ideal cooking method and timing to produce perfectly-crisped bean sprouts, similar to the teppanyaki chefs who cook them in front of you at food courts.
Final thoughts
Although there were some hits and misses at Kiang Kiang Taiwan Teppanyaki, the stall is definitely heading on the right path.
Duncan also shared with me that currently in Taipei, stalls that serve these hotplate Western dishes are gradually disappearing — he hopes to keep the cuisine going.
Now that some time has passed and things have stabilised since their opening, Duncan and his wife have opened a second branch at Bedok, fulfilling the future plans he once talked about 2 years ago.
Expected damage: S$8.50 – S$13.50 per pax
