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Whenever the owner, Mr X (prefers to be discreet), of The Ceylonese Affair at Mei Ling Market & Food Centre tells customers that he’s serving Sri Lankan-style briyani, many will ask if he is actually from there. The truth is — Mr X is a local Indian whose wife is a Singaporean Chinese.
Though his briyani recipe was inherited by his late Sri Lankan-born grandma, it was actually through his mum that he learnt how to cook this dish. To suit the taste buds of Singaporeans and to attract more customers (of course), he adapted and tweaked the recipe slightly. A little fun fact — Mr X used to sell briyani at Shaw Towers (if you know, you know).
The stall also sells various savoury and sweet appam, which is prepared by his wife who learnt from him — she helps out at the stall whenever she can.
Unlike traditional briyani that serves the curry separately, everything is served in a bowl with the curries slathered over the meats. And speaking of meats, the chicken here is served boneless for easier consumption. Whenever Mr X eats briyani, he dreads biting into strong herbs like star anise or cardamom, so rest assured they are removed after cooking. To make the rice less oily and heavy, he doesn’t add the various coloured oils derived from curries and chutneys, too.
What to order at The Ceylonese Affair
There are a total of 9 briyani options to take your pick, and boy, was it difficult to choose. After much deliberation, I decided to get the Fried Chicken (S$7.50) and Beef Masala (S$8.50). We got things started with the Fried Chicken which came with basmati rice, 4 pieces of boneless chicken, achar, and a generous topping of fried shallots which concealed the meat.
The rice was fluffy and light without the cloying oils, complemented by the aromatic fried shallots that gave it a boost of flavour.
The pieces of fried chicken were tender and marinated well with the various herbs and spices. Though there isn’t any yoghurt used, the meat kind of reminded me of tandoori in a good way. If I must say, having briyani without bones is really a game changer!
The achar that consisted of cucumbers and carrots not only gave it some crunch, but also helped to cut down the overall richness of the dish. I just wished it was a little tangier though my dining partners were fine with it.
At just S$1.80, the portion of the Sambal Brinjal is a steal. Cooked to perfection, each piece of brinjal was slightly crispy on the outside, and buttery and soft on the inside. The sambal was unapologetically spicy, leaving beads of sweat forming on my forehead and neck as I gleefully ‘suffered’ through every bite.
Next, we moved on to the Beef Masala which had 4 substantially-sized cubes of beef served with the same partners in crime as the Fried Chicken.
The beef was beautifully tender. with none of the stringy fibres that usually get lodged between your teeh, making every bite moist and effortless. The masala flavours managed to penetrate every corner and crevice of the meat, making it incredibly delicious.
Instead of the usual sweet appam, I opted for the savoury alternative, the Egg Pepper with Cheeni Sambal (S$3.50). The circular pancake-like dish was dusted with black specks of pepper with a cooked egg formed in the middle, drizzled with coconut milk.
I was expecting a rush of heat when I tucked into the dough, but unfortunately, the flavour was rather muted. A stronger, peppery punch would’ve been a much better experience. Thankfully, the texture of the appam and the egg was spot on.
The cheeni sambal was thick and paste-like in consistency. It carried a gentle sweetness balanced by savoury notes, with a mild heat that gradually built on the tongue. It reminded me of a chunkier, spicier version of caramelised onions, making for an irresistibly addictive pairing with the pancake.
Who The Ceylonese Affair is best for
It’s perfect for briyani fans who are lazy to tackle the bones of the usual chicken breast or drumstick — each bowl is convenient to eat with just a spoon. It’s also great for those that don’t particularly love the oiliness and spice-heavy flavours of traditional briyani. If you’re having a sweet craving, there’s even sweet appam for dessert.
How to get there?
Mei Ling Market & Food Centre is about a 10-minute walk away from Queenstown MRT Station (EW19). Alternatively, you can take a bus and alight at these bus stops: Blk 158 and Blk 166/Aft Mei Chin Rd.
Do we recommend The Ceylonese Affair?
Yes. The variety of briyani served here can satisfy all kinds of palates. For those who don’t feel like eating meat, there’s the Egg Masala (S$5.50) and Vegetarian Masala (S$6.50) available. For meats, there’s chicken, fish, beef, and even mutton available. For a complete meal, you can pair your bowls of briyani with their savoury and sweet appam options.
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